this dirty queerdo loves dolly

Ok, the sydney food wrap up comes soon… for now let’s just say I think I am fatter. And I think I like the sun.

For now, from the lovely interweb comes yet, another reason to love Dolly:

Throughout the show, the entire crowd was on its feet and the lawn was no longer a quilt, but a sea of people that stretched way into the distance. Some found refuge (and a great view) in the trees, prompting Dolly to say, "Are those monkeys or people up there?" A group of women towards the front waved a bed-sheet sign that read "Dirty Dirty Queerdos Love Dolly" to which she replied, "Well, I love you too."
From Hardly Strictly Bluegrass

This comes via gordonzola who went to a Joan Jett concert where the fans were holding a sign saying “Dirty Dirty Queerdos Love Joan Jett”. Sadly Joan didn’t respond as lovingly as Dolly. There's an argument in this somewhere I think...

success!

Hey I thought my mission to learn how to make crepes was going to be an epic quest complete with training montages and crumpled up crepes being thrown into the wastepaper basket. Yes I know I'm mixing my genres but I'm in shock because I had my first go this morning and I am full of the glow of success. This is when mum's theory really pays off.

Crepes for beginners
3/4 cup plain flour
2 eggs, beaten
2/3 cup milk
2/3 cup water
1 tbsp oil
1 tbsp sugar
1 tsp vanilla
pinch of salk

Beat the eggs and whisk in the flour, milk and water. Add the other bits and whisk it all real well so there's no lumps or nothin. Leave it to stand for 20 minutes. Or if your breakfast buddy shows up looking hungry like mine, 10 will have to do.

This batter is so thin it scared me but it works. Really.

Heat a crepe pan (yeah right) or heavy frypan (ok!). Add a little butter. When it's hot pour in some batter and tilt the pan so it spreads real thin. Mine went all sorts of funny shapes, dunno how you get them round.

Now the trick is to not cook them too much at all. Keep the heat pretty low. We want a very light brown on the first side and then just a few spots of brown on the other. This way they are nice and soft not crunchy like from those lame "creperie" places that have sprung up all over town. Add more butter when they start to stick.

Ok eat them now. We had a choice of blueberries, cream, maple syrup and of course, marmalade. You don't need to be so excessive. This recipe makes 10 crepes. I think I should have invited someone else to help me and Bindy eat them. Now i think I have to go lie down and recover.

I love webstats.. not just knowing someone actually comes here, not just the amusement of the strange search terms that bring you here but also occassionally looking at how many of you are, like me, doing this on work time.

So hands up:
Who's my fan from the Department of Premier and Cabinet?
Who's at News Ltd in Sydney?
Griffith Uni?
But wait, who the hell is visiting from the House of Rep's in the big ole U S of A?

my mama said

My mum often says that it's not a good idea to get your hopes up - then you might get disappointed. And if all doesn't go terribly wrong, well you'll be pleasantly surprised. People tell me this is not a good way to approach life but more and more lately I think she be onto something.

Recent examples:

1. Stick It - now, if I hadn't been expecting this to be the best film of the last 5 years would I have felt its hopelessness so deeply? Gutted.
2. Kimchi and Bab - Lish has been talking up this Korean for at least a month, without even trying it. I dropped in there for lunch today and found the Bibim Bap quite average. And only 2 side dishes served with it. Sad.
3. Last night. Cafe Romantica. Pizza. Beer. And then that stupid stupid penalty. Still, weirdly because I had been expecting the roos to get thrashed I felt ok about it. Is it really lame to just be happy with how well they played up until then?

Meanwhile some internet treats:
I know people have told me that Go Fug Yourself is not as amusing as I find it. But their touching tribute to Aaron Spelling via ugly fashion is too good. So if you were a Brenda and Brandon fan check out the 90210 fug legacy for some excellent package action from Bran or the Brenda special for a superb look at menswear gone femmey 80s style.

Tal made these cookies and had them couriered down to Romantica to sustain the fans. So good. Buttery and orangey. I am still confused that this jen-jen with a cooking blog is not the jen-jen.

Dear dear sandy is going off - not only did he post an excellent looking recipe for jackfruit curry but now he's becoming a mp3 blogger. I'm going to head up to Sydney on the weekend and try and have exciting enough conversations with him that I end up on the blog. Although he mostly blogs about annoying conversations. Hmm....

And some text message poetry from Sam who couldn't get out of bed to come to vegan yum cha because she was too hungover:

Cant deal bad equals cant leave bed for puke

(Actually John had to write it because Sam was too sick to text.)

THE GREAT DEBATE #1: fluffy vs. thin

Ok so being audience responsive as always, I thought I better address the mega issue of fluffy versus thin. No not hair types.. fluff beats thin there like rock to your scissors. I’m talking pancakes. Specifically I’m talking pancakes you make at home – eating out is a whole different post.

I’ll admit I’ve had some longstanding thick pancake loyalties which have been challenged by some recent crepe experiences. I’ve been forced me to look at where these prejudices come from. I think in my family of origin (to use my newfound therapist’s vocab) pancakes uncomfortably straddled the line between thin and fluffy. They were eggy but not crepes, they were thick but not fluffy. I mean, I’m no ingrate, I’m happy my dad made us any pancakes at all and his birthday special – with bits of apple in the mix – was pretty fine. But let’s just say when I discovered that with a bit of baking powder, some melted butter and a good whisking wrist you could get big fluffy pancakes that soaked up lots and lots of syrup I was as happy as a kid at the pancake parlour. (Lets not talk about when we dared Robin to scull the jug of syrup at that establishment).

So yeah, thick pancakes for me are all about the soaking up of real pure maple syrup. Sometimes though, I’ll admit it, they can be just a little too much to chow down on first thing. And not that popular with the ladies. Despite this creeping sense that maybe I’m backing the losing side, I’ve not yet strayed from my fluffy ways, partly because I’ve been intimidated by figuring out how to make crepes.

But the other morning I had crepes made for me that were so perfect and eggy and buttery and light. Wrapped around “the best marmalade in the world” they were just too good to be ignored. You know, you can eat a lot more crepes than pancakes. Which means a lot more marmalade. Time to learn how to make crepes?

So dear readers, let the debate begin…

Ps – I have also been getting into pikelets lately – maybe fluffiness but smaller. At the beach we had them with 5 types of jam and cream and that was a darn fine spread.

Pps – I suppose also, that faced with the dilemna of wanting to make the best of a gifted bottle of organic maple syrup, as I am now, I might also opt for some French toast. Made with challah or greek egg bread of course. Dusted with cinnamon… now that’s not sounding too bad at all.

crazy sticky bitter goodness

Sometimes I think working with my mate Lish is the only thing that keeps me sane at work. But I worry that actually somehow together we make each other insane. Like whose idea was it to make marmalade at 9 o’clock on a school night? It seemed like a good plan for a while but at 1 in the morning, half dozing, half watching the soccer as we waited for it to reach the crinkle stage.. well right then it didn’t seem so sane. We started to think of all our friends who hate marmalade. What were we doing? Why? Would it ever set?

All this is forgotten though when I see the look on people’s faces as they taste the product of our insanity and enjoy what one dear eater called “the best marmalade in the world.” And I have been obsessively eating it all the time. Oh it's so so good! Starting the day with this baby on tal's excellent crepes made my saturday. And don't even get me started on how great it is on croissants. Yes, maybe I did take a jar to babka the other day so I could have it on their croissants. Is that more insanity?

Mandarin Marmalade
(if you’re not lucky enough to have a mandarin tree handy use whatever citrus you can lay your paws on)

Marmalade is real easy, it always seems to set even if you have the panic moment that it won’t. All you need is a big wide and preferably heavy pot. I’ve seen a recipe that didn’t have my flesh scooping step but this is how my friend Clare taught me and it’s always worked for me.

So all you need is some fruit and lots of white death sugar. We started with 5kg fruit and made about 13 big jars of marmalade. It took about 4.5kg sugar. Ok, lets get started...

• Put three saucers in the freezer. (No this is not part of the insanity – you’ll see)
• Cut the fruit in half (across not lengthwise) and stick in a pot with enough water to cover.
• Boil until the fruit is soft but not falling apart.
• Drain and let them cool a bit. Unless you are crazy (see above) and want to burn your fingers.
• Now you need to remove the seeds. This is kinda fiddly – use a fork or something. It don’t matter if you miss a few, you can scoop em out later. Keep the seeds.
• Now scoop the flesh out and keep.
• Cut the peel as finely as you can be bothered.
• Weigh the peel and flesh. Throw it in the pot with the same amount of sugar – yup scary amounts of sugar is what i'm talking about.
• Put the pips in a bit of muslin or a clean tea towel, tie it and throw it in the pot.
• Bring to the boil slowly letting the sugar dissolve but then boil the fuck out of it for a long time. Watch the soccer. Drink tea. Stir it a bit so it don’t stick.
• When it’s starting to look a bit thick you need to start testing it. Put a small dollop on one of your frozen saucers and wait. After 30 seconds push the top with your finger. If it crinkles it’s ready. You see the saucer is very cool – it simulates how your jam will be when it has cooled. If it’s not crinkling stay calm and keep cooking, it’ll set.
• When it’s ready put it into warm sterilised jars and stick lids on it.

Now serve to wide acclaim and convert all your marmalade hating friends into lovers. I mean, marmalade lovers.

cupcakes for the ladeez

Now, with my reputation I am used to people asking me for advice about getting girls into bed. Oh yeah, that happens all the time. So I was not surprised to read Shannon's comment requesting a cupcake recipe. I think probably she's gonna do something really inadvisable with my advice but that my friends, is beyond my control. However let it be said that I would prefer in general that you all used my recipes for good and not for evil (or self-destructive angst creation).

So... Cupcakes.

Yes they are all trendy again but like stripy tops that doesn't mean they ain't good. And when the hipsters move on to the next hot thang cupcakes will still be sweet and small, conveniently portable and a hit with all those who like a bit of childhood nostalgia.

Now, as I said in the comments, I mostly like to just use a good cake recipe and stick it in cupcake shape. This recipe is the exception - I don't think a batter this plain would work in cake form but in a cupcake it's all you need. In fact, it's all about those cute little paper cases, the icing and silver balls.

This recipe comes from my sister Marion. She brought some along to a family night once when we were watching But I'm a Cheerleader. You know the bit where they discuss what their "root" is? And they're all talking about gender stuff and why they ended up queer? Marion turns to me and asks "what's your root?" We discuss the family myth that everyone wanted me to be a boy. Then Marion says "I always knew I was a girl" and ta-da..... pulls out a tupperware container full of these cupcakes all iced in bright pink. Yes, a perfect family moment - they were almost the exact kitsch pink colour as the uniforms the girls have to wear in the movie.

Anyway, I never let my gender identity get in the way of baking. But maybe you've felt constrained by the need to seem tough all the time? To wield the power tools not the appliances? Well this recipe is so easy you can start breaking outta that gender binary right now. If you wanna get the girl get your toughest apron out and get in the kitchen.

ain't afraid to bake cupcakes

• 1 1/2 cups self raising flour
• 1/3 cup castor sugar
• 1/3 cup brown sugar
• 125g soft butter chopped into bits
• 3 eggs
• 1/4 cup milk
• 1 tsp vanilla
  

for the icing:

• 1 cup thick double cream
• 1/4 cup brown sugar
• pink food colouring

Light the damn oven and turn it to 180C. Get some tough little patty cases with really butch flowers or something and put them on a tray.

Beat all the ingredients up like you would some chick who you saw looking at your lady. Or maybe use an electric beater actually and beat them for 4 minutes on a medium speed cos violence is never cool.

Spoon the mix into the cases, they should be 3/4 full. Cook those fuckers for 20-25 minutes until they rise up to tell you that you rule, and they should be golden.

Let them chill out until they are as cool as you.

Mix the cream with the sugar and pink icing. Spread on the cupcakes and top with some silver balls.

Now go give some to your lady with some cheesy line like “cos you’ll always be my cupcake.” That should make up for being a stupid dumbass.

all creatures great and spicy

If shannon didn't have quite such a good turn of phrase i might not take her berating so seriously. But here she is reminding me that i have a blogging public and making me feel all guilty about neglecting you all... And if that wasn't enough she told me there's a blogging explosion and I'm missing out. If guilt wasn't enough of a motivating force, fomo^* sure is.

If I’ve been absent it’s only because I’m confused. It seems even this kind of vague and constantly qualified writing requires some sense of certainty and that, I just don't have.

But for now, let me tell you about my pets. Darling Satan (my cat) may still be with his foster family but since I've taken on my house's obsession for preserving I have a whole little menagerie to look after.

There's the sourdough starter, he likes to be fed rye flour every day and given a good belly scratch (ok, just a stir really). Then there's the sprouts (millet and rye berries at the moment) - they need a little wash every day. Out the back black olives are happily swimming in their bucket but they like their water changed every second day. And this weekend I started a new pet – little kim chi! She’s pretty low maintenance but I think it’s good to check in on her every few days or she might get sulky and go mouldy.

Adam inspired me to try my own kim chi because I totally scoffed the batch he made a couple of weeks ago – delicious. So here’s a quick recipe, because kim chi is the bestus most delicious thing ever. And it stops you getting bird flu.

For a ridiculously big batch you’ll need some ingredients roughly like this:

• 2 big heads chinese cabbage (wom bok)
• 1 large daikon radish
• 1 carrot
• ginger to taste
• chillis - 3 small ones?
• 3 cloves garlic
• 1 onion

You can also add spring onions, jerusalem artichokes, celery or whatever you have around.

You'll need good big jar, crock or bucket. Leftover catering supply buckets from a deli or café are good because they’re made of food grade plastic

• Chop your cabbage and daikon up - big chunks is fine.
• Now make a brine with 3 tablespoons of salt and a litre or so of water - just boil, dissolve and let it cool.
• Cover the cabbage and daikon with the brine. Press it down with a plate and a weight to keep it submerged. If you're using a jar wedge something in the top to keep your goodies underwater.
• Leave overnight or for a few hours. Drain the brine off but keep it somewhere.
• Taste your cabbage - it should be softened a little and salty. We want noticeably salty but not grossly so. If it's not salty sprinkle a little salt on, if it's too salty soak in fresh water for a couple of hours before you continue.
• Slice the carrot and onion, crush the garlic and ginger and chillies and mix them all together with the cabbage and daikon.
• Put back in your container and squish it down real hard with your weight – I use a big 4 litre jar filled with water on top of the plate. Brine and juices should come out to cover it all. Leave it for a few hours as more brine will come out. If it’s still not covered add a little of the reserved brine.
• Stick your weight back on and cover with a cotton bag or something to keep flies out.
• Wait. The kimchi should be ready in 3 to 10 days depending on the weather. Stir the brine on top occassionally to keep mould from forming. Make sure all the bits are submerged and taste regularly so it doesn’t get sulky.

Ok, so that’s a bit of a basic recipe done from memory. Hopefully it makes enough sense to follow. The thing is, kim chi is one of my favourite things but i never thought i could actually make it. Turns out it's really simple. It even tastes good after a day when it's just lightly pickled. Also if it does taste a little fizzy after a while don't worry, that's just the bacteria getting active and it will actually taste better again a few days later when they die off.

For an even simpler method you can see this site which has very endearing photos. I didn’t know that in korea they have kim chi gloves for mixing the chilli through.

^*fomo - fear of missing out. as in "i didn't go to the party last weekend and i had the worst case of fomo."

to warm your toes

And so, the temperature drops on the abruzzo club clock (8 degrees last night) and our correspondent's mind turns to keeping her toes warm... Yes folks Melbourne autumn - sure feels like winter.

When I can't find a lovely lady to keep me warm I find that zupa ogorkowa (pickle soup) is the next best thing. I made some for darling Bindi, who has been in the surgical wars and she was as pleased as could be. I used the last of the summer's homemade pickles, added a little celery but no flour so it was nice and brothlike.

Another good way to keep warm is of course, in front of the oven. For Asha's Mexican dinner I made a batch of spicy chocolate gingerbread. The plan was to amp up the chilli flavours but instead, due to a bit of vagueness and ignorance I ended up with a crazy black almost liquorice flavoured cake. See, I just don't know that much about molasses and didn't realise how strong blackstrap molasses is until Adam raised his eyebrows at me chucking half the jar in. He had me totally freaked out, telling me nobody but him was gonna be crazy enough to appreciate the heavy liqorice flavours. But it mellowed out in the oven and was a big hit. It's moist and just doesn't taste like it looks.. People were impressed and said it tasted "adult". Personally I'm not so much into being an adult, unless it's in an adult bookstore way.. But the cake rocked. I made it with a ganache chocolate topping because I've found the gingerbeer icing disappointing...

Now, I'm off to figure out what you can bake with tamarillos..

wife-swappin'

oh dearie, I have been a bad blogger. if anyone cares, well I offer my heartfelt apologies. It's not for lack of baking either - I've been getting back into the kitchen in a major way. Soon, inspired by my latest soba and seaweed rye bread success I'm going to write a little guide to sourdough. There really isn't much better than a house that smells of freshly baked bread and the loaves are getting fluffier, sour-er and altogether better by the week.

Otherwise, well it's autumn and that means quinces (poached Armenian style with a little rosewater and lemon), hearty soups and feijoas falling from the trees.

Meanwhile can I say again how much I love the chocolate lady? today she has a post about the historic practice of box socials - a kind of wife swapping in which men would bid for a box meal (picnic) and the chance to eat it with its maker. the chocolate lady seems a little aghast at the misogyny of it but i want to throw one immediately. what a great fundraiser...

little bundles of joy

these little babies date back to long long ago.. i made them prior to the arrival of my favourite little baby. see in the lead up to my sister giving birth i was unemployed and anxious to be of some assistance. i wasn't sure what i could do to help - pregnancy being kinda a one woman job and all. then i remembered cooking - that old failsafe neighbourly help out. i think bringing people food in times of trouble is one of the best things you can do. even times of joy like breeding because people tend to get overwhelmed and are not necessarily in a real state to be cooking.

so anyway i snapped into action with a mission to fill marion and andy's freezer. and these little pirozhki from my new russian cookbook turned out so good. they are just a little flaky with moist fillings and the perfect size to serve to all those pesky guests who drop around to look at cute babies. plus i like the way they look all snug-as-a-bug.. just like isaac when he's all bundled up in his favourite cocoon impersonation. they freeze real good too. oh now i'm not scared of pastry i just want to make pies all day long.


Pirozhki
To make these I used a quick yeast dough - you could substitute puff pastry but they wouldn't be quite as good. Then I made a potato filling and a cabbage filling.. mushroom would also be great.

The recipes are below but basically all you need to do is get your pastry and roll it out until it's about 1/8 inch thick. I dunno how thick that is but i reckon 2 - 3 cardboard coasters thick is about right. Now use a big drinking glass to cut out rounds. Flatten them between your fingers and place a heaping teaspoon of filling in the middle. Fold the edges together and press firmly to seal. Then press the edges back against the pirozhok and pat it into a nice little snug shape. Place on a baking tray with the seam down. Brush your little babies with an egg wash (1 egg yolk beaten with 1 tsp milk) and bake them at 180C until golden brown - 25 to 30 minutes. Now freeze for your loved ones or just eat them. Maybe with some sour cream? Definitely with strong tea with lemon.

ps - my book also helpfully clears up some worries I'd had about pirozhki, pierogi and all that. basically in russian a Pirog is a big pie. piroghi is the plural - many big pies. Pirozhok is a little pie and pirozhki is the plural. Pierogi on the other hand is Polish for dumplings. got it?

Dough:
(according to my book this recipe is "well known to every working Russian woman."
1 package dry yeast or 2 tsp fresh
2 tsp sugar
2/3 cup lukewarm milk
1 cup unsalted butter - melted and cooled to lukewarm
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/2 tsp salt
3 1/4 - 3 3/4 cups unbleached plain flour

In a large bowl combine the yeast, sugar and milk and let stand until foamy - about 5 minutes.
Add the butter, egg and salt and mix well with a wooden spoon.
Stir in 3 1/4 cups flour, 1 cup at a time, mixing real well so you can get a big strong forearm like a true russian woman.
Transfer dough to a floured surface and knead gently until you have a smooth, rather loose dough, about 3 minutes, adding just enough of the remaining flour to prevent sticking.
Shape into a ball, cover with a tea towel and let stand for ten minutes.
Divide into thirds, stick them in plastic bags and refrigerate until you're ready to roll.

Potato filling:
3 tbsp vegie oil
2 large onions, chopped oh so fine
4 large boiling potato, boiled and mashed
1/2 cup famer's cheese (this is an american term for a white firm cheese - I used a polish one from the market but use what you can find - nothing strongly flavoured though)
4 tbsp butter, melted

Heat the oil in a heavy pan and saute the onions over a medium heat for a good long time until they're all browned - it should take about 15 minutes. Now mix them with all the rest of the stuff and season it well.

Cabbage filling:
1/2 head green cabbage chopped up real fine
1 tbsp butter
2 tbsp vegie oil
2 hard boiled eggs, also chopped finely
2 tbsp or more chopped fresh dill

Blanch the cabbage in boiling salted water for 3 minutes. Drain well and squeeze to remove excess liquid.
Heat butter and oil in a large frypan. Add the cabbage and cook, stirring, until soft and coloured, 15 to 20 minutes.
Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining ingredients. Season well and cool before using.

feeling festive?

ok i'm not really feeling super festive either... but i made these lovely hamentaschen a couple of weeks ago for Purim, the Jewish festival of Esther. Yeah I really do have my own festival I'm not just being self-centred. It's all about how I was a really hot lover and persuaded the king not to kill all the jews. Well that's what I got from a cursory torah reading the other night.

Anyway, the food, the food.. Hamentaschen (=Haman's pockets) are meant to look like the hat that the evil Haman wore. Why are they named after his pockets then? I don't know.

I used this recipe from the pie queen and made the apricot filling she gives as well as a poppyseed filling of my own invention. The poppyseeds were a winner with my family but the apricot stuff was damn good too. And it gave me an excuse to buy the middle-eastern dried apricot sheets I'd been eyeing off for years. All in all the Hamentaschen were crowd pleasers, with their biscuity dough and sweet three sided hat-like appearance. And my housemate Adam kept saying I'd been doing biblical baking which was pretty cute.

Sorry for my lame posting absences.. I'll be back shortly.

good things

1. Fried haloumi served with apple sorbet.
At the greek place diagonally opposite Stalactites. We had to order this dish twice and it made Dan so ecstatic he couldn't pronounce orgasmic.

2. Sandy made his first cake!
First I got a text message asking if the Passionfruit Sponge was a bit hard for a first time baker. I felt mean but I had to say yes, it took me forever to get that cake right. Next day I got a text asking me what it means to cream butter and sugar and it made me nervous but he did me so so so proud making the Prune and Whisky cake. And the next day he said "this baking thing rocks! everybody loved it." Oh yes folks we have another convert.

Oh yeah, and my sister had a baby!!!! I'm still so vagued out i can't even tell you how awesome that is.

go postal

I was thinking the other day about what cakes are best for mailing. Because it's my favourite thing to bake for people and i'm not gonna stop just because of a little thing like distance. I remember a couple of years ago I was really impressed when S's mum sent her an orange and poppyseed cake for her birthday. I think the trick is to fit them real snuggly into whatever container you're posting so they can't move around. Anyway, I decided on Brownies this time because they age quite well, are solid and can be carved into cutesy little shapes if you're feeling so inclined.

Brownies of course are a bit of a holy grail type of baking - so often they disappoint, being too dry, not chewy enough or just not chocolatey. Extensive web research took me to this recipe from Orangette for "best-ever brownies". Too cocky? Maybe not because they were damn damn good. Don't think I didn't use 2 blocks of Lindt 70% proof chocolate though.

The best thing about these brownies, after posting them off to adulation, was freezing them into icecream sandwiches to put in my sister Marion's freezer. And now that she's popped my little nephew out she's allowed to eat them. They are so so so good frozen.

Chocolate Brownies
Adapted by Orangette from Baking with Julia and meddled with by me just a tad.
There's a tempting picture of these at Chef Kristy

1 ¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tsp salt
240gms unsalted butter
180gms best darkest chocolate you can find
2 cups raw sugar
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
4 large eggs
1 handful of chopped nuts - I used walnuts and pecans

Center a rack in the oven, and preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius.

In a small bowl, whisk together the flour and salt; set aside.

Melt the butter and the chocolate together in a metal bowl over a saucepan of simmering water making sure the bowl doesn't touch the water. Stir frequently. When the chocolate and butter are both melted and smooth, add 1 cup of the sugar to the mixture, and stir it for 30 seconds; then remove the mixture from the heat, and stir in the vanilla extract. Pour the mixture into a large bowl.

Put the remaining 1 cup sugar and the eggs into a medium bowl, and whisk by hand to combine. Little by little, pour half of the sugar and eggs into the chocolate mixture, stirring gently but constantly with a rubber spatula so that the eggs don’t scramble from the heat. Beat the remaining sugar and eggs on medium speed until they are thick, pale, and doubled in volume, about 3 minutes. Using the rubber spatula, gently fold the whipped eggs and sugar into the chocolate mixture. When the eggs are almost completely incorporated, gently fold in the flour and half the nuts.

Pour and scrape the batter into an unbuttered 8-inch square pan, a heavy non-stick one is good. Scatter the rest of the nuts on top. Bake the brownies for 25-28 minutes, during which time they will rise a bit and the top will turn dry and a bit crackly. After 23 minutes, stick a knife or toothpick into the center to see how they are progressing. They should be just barely set—not too raw, but still fairly gooey (mine took about 28 and were possibly a little mushy in the middle). Cool the brownies in the pan on a rack. When they’re completely cool, cut them into rectangular bars to serve. Or carve into love hearts etc.

For ice cream sandwiches cut them in half into thin slices and put a good couple of inches of vanilla ice cream in the middle. Re-freeze. Gobble. Collapse in ecstatic goodness.

cakes and the cake lady

I love geeks who cook. This is the insides of a PC in gingerbread!

And talking of genius cakes, Nat the cakelady is doing an art project with Jo where they hitch around Oystralia and talk to truck drivers and take pictures. Pay them a visit.

the less sweet beet?

You know, I really love silverbeet. I can tell it's love because I don't just like to eat it, I feel the need to protect it. I worry about how people seem to think of it as inferior to spinach. It's so unfair because silverbeet is better really - it doesn't turn into a little pile of nothing, it doesn't make your teeth go funny and fuzzy. Best of all, it's so easy to grow so you can always have some for all your greenery needs. Still being a bit homeless myself I went over to Marion's to pick some from her crazy overrun underloved garden and made pie. Pie making seems to be what i do these days.


Silverbeet Torte
My cousin Tessa made this for Chrismukkah dinner (see picture) and it rocked. We kept calling it a pie and she got a little irate and insisted we call it a torte. As far as I knew a torte was a cake. Dictionary.com agrees. But hey, if she wants it to be a torte that's fine. Either way it's real yum and has a great texture in the middle because of the egg and potato - it's a bit like spanish omelette in that way. I made the recipe as it is below but I'd probably make the dough without using a food processor next time as I think it was a little overworked. I made mine round as suggested and a little flatter - about 3 inches high.

Dough:
200g p flour
1/2 tsp salt
1+1/2 tsp extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup cold water

Whizz flour and salt in food processor. Drizzle in oil and then water. Process dough for about a minute until it forms a ball. Remove to floured surface and knead for 2-3 mins until supple and smooth. Place in bowl, cover with cloth, refrigerate for 2 hours. Preheat oven to 200c & lightly oil a 28cm pizza tray (or whatever).

Filling:
150g silverbeet leaves and stalks (or rainbow chard), washed and drained
1 tbsp salt
1 medium potato (150g), boiled whole & roughly chopped
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 tbsp chopped parsley (I used more of course)
150g crumbled "stretchy" cheese (fontina, asiago, mozzarella or feta - I used fetta and some swiss that was in the fridge)
freshly ground black pepper
1 large egg
2 tbsp extra virgin oil
sea salt

Finely shred and chop silverbeet. Place in colander and toss with tbsp of salt. Leave for 20mins, then rinse and squeeze dry (Tessa says you can skip this step but I'm such a stickler I didn't). Mix silverbeet with chopped potato, diced onion, parsley and cheese. Season with pepper. Whisk the egg with the olive oil and mix through the filling. Taste for salt.

Roll two-thirds of dought on floured surface into a circle to cover base of pizza tray. Spoon on the filling, leaving 2cm border of dough. Stretch back the edge of dough over filling pleating it as you go. Dampen with water. Roll remaining dough a little smaller and drape it over the filling. Press to seal with the pleated edge. Pierce here and there with a fork then drizzle top with remaining oil and scatter with a few grains of sea salt. Bake for 20 mins or until golden. Leave to settle 10 mins before cutting.

simple things

Simple pleasures like zucchini from Ruth's garden quickly browned then covered in mint, fetta and eggs for omelettes I could eat everyday.

Or tomatoes tasting good like you know they won't in a month or two so you grab some basil from the garden and a bit of cheese and have the best pasta ever nestled down in front of an old musical.

High Society was just perfect. There's Grace Kelly with her too perfect waves. How does she get her hair to stay like that? There's Frank Sinatra as the cynical little reporter for the gossip rag (damn he's short!). And there's Bing Crosby all romantic fool singing sweetly. It was great to see everyone being so enthusiastic about drinking. This is a movie not just with a drunk scene but a hangover scene too. Grace even has a memory blackout about whether she's gotten it on with Frank or not!

And then I realised that this movie is the forerunner to The OC. Frank and his photographer girl are the outsiders coming to Newport (yes, the same newport) expecting to hate the idle rich. They pooh poo all their luxuries in the excellent "Who want to be a millionaire?" The pretty rich girl has all the men falling all over her and there's a nasty patriach lurking. But then surprise surprise, these filthy rich mansion dwellers turn out to be pretty darn nice people too and they teach our working pals a thing or two with a bunch of great songs. Oh if only it was all that sweet and simple.

and more friends

a little plug for foodgoat who has been having the most brilliant photo posts recently. this excellent knifeblock for one.
darth vader out of butter. for two.
cakes that look like butter. for three.
and then there's an evil satanic child with peas.
go. go see...

guess who's procrastinating?

I am trying to write job applications and, taking Az's advice, I've been using the thesaurus to avoid repeating myself over and over. But it doesn't understand me! Like when I feel geeky saying that I'm "excited" by the potential of peer advocacy I look up excited and get:
- keyed up
- thrilled
- provoked
- agitated
or maybe:
"I am hot and bothered about the possibilities offered by such an approach."

Yup, now that's super professional. Gahh I hate doing the self-promoting schtick.

and on my right...

I thought I'd take this opportunity to introduce the newest name on my links list - the chocolate lady over at In Mol Araan. I first read some of her work on a Passover survival guide my mum emailed me a few years back. Sure, Nell and I laughed at the idea of grilling matzah balls but you know, her soup recipe sure saved me some pain. That's why the chocolate lady says:
kikts in mol araan es zol zikh mertshem in gantsn oysvepn enker zup-bahole!

Or in English:
Come to In Mol Araan and watch your soup-angst evaporate!

Food and yiddish. And cute pictures. What more do you need already? More? Well she has a lovely way with words. In the current post she describes bleeding heart radishes as possessing a stormy pinkness. Ahhh, now that's the kind of wordsmithing to soothe my soul.

In other random internet news I found something actually interesting in one of the spammy comments I used to get. Apparently kimchi can cure bird flu:

"Quoting the team's test results, BBC said of the 13 chickens stricken with the influenza, 11 had shown telling curative effects after being administered kimchi extracts."

Now is that why Adam has those vats of cabbage fermenting? He is a bit of a survivalist.

please to the table

I'm trying to be grateful for how much time i have on my hands right now. It's kind of doing my head in having so little structure in my life but i know as soon as i get a job i'll be wishing i had more time for lying around, reading and cooking. So instead of moping - no actually, as well as moping - i'm living my life from a series of lists i made while i was travelling. There are pages and pages of them written up and stuck on my walls - things to research in the library, things to do right now, fun things, regular things, long term ideas and of course: things to cook.

The things to cook list is all the foods i dreamt of fondly while i was away and this walnut sauce was one of the first to make the list. "Walnut sauce?!?" everyone said yesterday when i pulled some out at the harvest festival. Ya huh. It's creamy without dairy, it's garlicky and it does something unexplainably sneakishly good.

I made this first for Chrismukkah 2004 from moro, which has the Turkish version called Tarator. Then I noticed a Georgian version in my new cookbook, Please to the table so I thought I'd try that. Please to the table says that at any good Georgian party you'll get at least three vegetables dressed with this sauce. They're called pkhali. I love it with roasted eggplant, or green beans or even thinned down on cucumber. It's also meant to be good with beetroots which i'll be trying very very soon. The main thing is to make the sauce 6 to 8 hours ahead so the garlic flavour settles and to serve it at room temperature.

Walnut sauce, georgian style
3/4 cup walnuts
4 cloves garlic
3 tbsps coriander leaf finely minced
1/2 tsp coriander seeds
pinch cayenne
1/4 tsp fenugreek
1 1/2 tbsps white wine vinegar
3 tbsps water or more
salt

Pound the garlic up in your trusty mortar and pestle. Add the walnuts and dry spices and keep pounding till they're all mushed. Add the water and vinegar until you have a sauce and then stir the coriander through. Mix through your chosen vegetables and chill for 6 hours or so.

Eggplant pkhali made a great starter the other day with warm bread - until me and Sammy pigged out on it too much and couldn't fit in the delicious cold borscht I'd made. Just chop a big eggplant or two in half lengthwise, prick with a fork a few times and whack it on a oiled tray in a hot oven. Bake until it goes all wrinkly and the flesh is soft and browning. Scoop the flesh out and mix with the sauce, thinking all the time about how the phrase "scoop the flesh out" makes you feel a bit wrong and kinda good at the same time.

crash landing

Killer says it's landing pain. Better than "adjustment angst". Whatever you call it though there's days that are ok, days that suck, moments of beautiful light and times that don't really bear describing. Then there's cooking. When I was away I realised I often undervalue the things that really matter to me. Cooking and gardening aren't just hobbies - they're work in the real sense of the thing... labour that creates something. My hands need to move, I need to feel I'm producing something and we all need to eat.

Wednesday night dinner... me and S. had to meet and talk. There are some things you can't say via text message. I changed the menu plan 5 times. I wasn't sure I wanted to make something really amazing if we would both feel too sick to eat. But then I wanted to make something amazing.

Crazy Water, Pickled Lemons still hasn't made it back to the library so I decided on the piadina with caramelised onions, walnuts and taleggio. Piadina is an Italian flatbread that was ridiculously easy to make - mix flour, oil and water; knead; roll out; fry in rounds. I'm cheese mad right now and taleggio might be my new favourite indulgence. It's creamy almost like brie but with more of an aged blue taste. And bubbling under the grill over a spread of caramelised onions and walnuts on the piadina... well it was so good it tasted amazing even on a clenched tight stomach. Maybe I was overdoing it because I needed to keep busy that afternoon or maybe it's that I don't know how to cook for two. But I couldn't help myself from cooking up some garden fresh zucchinis with mint and chilli, and Abla's fried cauliflower with tahini sauce. Rocket salad added the peppery greenness needed.

Later... things were going ok. As ok as can be expected. And there was this cake to bring us back to the table. It's good cake. The kind of cake that comforts, doesn't scream about itself but impresses quietly. I'm a big fan of yoghurt cakes and they're stupidly easy. That ain't a bad thing.

Yoghurt and Walnut Cake with Coffee Syrup
from Crazy Water Pickled Lemons

This cake is meant to be made the day before but I didn't read that until it was too late. It was still good on the day but better the next.

175g butter
175g caster sugar
2 eggs
175g plain yoghurt (preferably Greek style. the new Chris's yoghurt is awesome)
175g shelled walnuts
175g self-raising flour
1 tsp baking powder
icing sugar

For the syrup:
275ml strong espresso coffee
75g caster sugar
2 tbsp brandy if you got it (I didn't)

1. Preheat your oven to 180C

2. Take 125g of the walnuts and chop em roughly. Yeah rough, they like it like that. Take the remainder and grind them in a mortar and pestle or somehow.

3. Cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, and continue to beat. Stir in the yoghurt and nuts.

4. Sift the flour and baking powder and fold into the batter. Pour into a greased and lined tin about 8 inches across. Bake for 40 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean.

5. Mix the coffee with the sugar and boil until it's reduced by half. Add the brandy.

6. While the cake is still warm pierce it all over with the skewer and pour the coffee syrup on. Leave in the tin overnight if you're that organised.

7. Unmould the cake and dust it with icing sugar. Serve it with more yoghurt or maybe even with the Leche Merengada you just made? (see below)

better than ice cream?

Ok, I've been wanting to post this since Chrismukkah because it's one of those little secrets I wanna share. The picture is awful I know - the white blob is what we're talking about, and then that's Marion's lovely pudding, and my new shirt.

Anyway, Leche Merengada is just one of the tastiest and refreshingest things ever. It seems really classy somehow and is perfect for the end of a massive meal when ice cream might be a bit too much but sorbet just wouldn't work with the pudding. It's from Crazy Water, Pickled Lemons which we got out from the library again. I fell in love with that book all over again and this is just one of the reasons why.

Leche Merengada just means "meringued milk" and it's easier too than a custard based ice cream. You don't need an ice cream maker or nothing. So if it's hot where you are trust me on this little secret and get to it.

425 ml milk
150 ml runny cream (not thickened)
150g caster sugar
zest of 1 lemon
1 cinnamon stick
1 tbsp brandy
3 egg whites
ground cinnamon

1. Put the milk, cream and 100g of the sugar into a saucepan with the lemon and cinnamon stick. Bring to just under the boil, remove from the heat and let it infuse for about 40 minutes. Strain through a sieve and add the brandy.

2. Whisk the egg whites with the remaining sugar until stiff. Fold this into the cream and milk mixture - it will seem impossible to incorporate, but don't worry, as it will all get beaten together during the freezing process. Now put it into the freezer and just beat it with electric beaters or a food processor every hour or two until it looks good. Maybe 4 - 6 or more hours? Or use an ice-cream machine if ya got one.

3. Sprinkle with cinnamon before serving or if you're feeling really hip the book suggests you can serve it with a shot of iced espresso over the top for a "blanco y negro."

walls and all

Reading the Brooklyn Dispatch i find this disturbing article from the NYTimes about architecture and the West Bank barrier wall. Should I be surprised to read General Chavez from the Israeli Defense Forces' Operational Theory Research Institute quoting Deleuze & Guattari? Talking of smooth and striated spaces, air surveillance and swarming soldiers.

And it's just a week or two ago I was learning bout the political distinctions over at liz's blog. Striated space seemed like the trouble then.. and things seemed more hopeful, more poetic. It's kinda scary to see leftist theory regurgitated by the IDF. Kinda very.

Ok, I'm no theory head it's true.. but i'm still trying to get smarter and Killer wants to go to Queeruption this year in Tel Aviv so it's time to get thinking, don't you think?

back. and fuller than ever

Folks i've missed you.
6 glorious months staying with friends, cooking on fires and a campstove that had a tendency to burst into flames. I missed baking.

Here's Rocky the crocodile oven mit with the first of two pies i've made in recent sydney visits. I'm hoping to get some kinda reputation in sin city. I made the pecan pie in december using stephanie the pie queen's recipe. It was some excellent pie, squooshy and caramellish with a bit more body than most because of the eggs i think. It should come with a warning though - this pie is almost all sugar products. We had to lie down afterwards but hey, there are worse things than a post-pie nap.

The best bit is that i'm getting over my fear of pastry. I used the pie crust recipe that stephanie has for her apple pie and well, it just worked. No fussin. It made two crusts so of course i had to come back to sydney to use the one i stashed in the lander st freezer. Last night i used it up with a cherry pie to celebrate all the plump and tasty cherries around. Couldn't find a recipe i loved so i made one up. It was delicious and lemony though i didn't calculate how many cherries i'd need very well. So it was more of a cherry tart - not quite deep enough to qualify as pie. Maybe tarts are more classy anyway?

Well, i'm out of training with this blog business but i'll be back soon with the successful chrismukkah recipes. 'til then, if you want to give it a go:

(She's My) Cherry Pie
1 pie crust
1 egg yolk
100 g ground almonds
lots of fresh cherries - maybe a kilo?
zest of one lemon
white sugar

Roll out and blind bake your pie crust for about 15 minutes at 190C. Then brush it with egg yolk and bake it until golden. This will seal it so it doesn't go soggy. Meanwhile pit the cherries, getting red juice sprayed over everything. Stick them in a pot with the lemon juice and a half handful of sugar. Cook them just til they collapse a bit. When the pie crust is done cover it with the almond meal. Add the cherries, but maybe not all the juice from the pot. Top with cute designs made in leftover pastry and bake at 180 for about 40 - 50 minutes. Let it sit a moment and then devour with thick cream or icecream. If you're lucky like us friends will drop by to help with the devouring.

au revoir...

hey folks,
i think the time has come to say goodbye. I'm leaving on Thursday for 6 months of road tripping around this crazy land so I don't think there'll be much blogging. And probably, there won't be too much high quality cooking for a while either. So thanks for reading, it's been fun to do.

If full as a goog does return it'll probably be in a different form - i like writing about food but i'm a bit sick of it too. I used to think I should keep all my other thoughts for zines and letters but lately i wanna be a part of the thinking blog world... wanna write all the stuff that's been taking up my headspace like thinking about infatuation, booty dancing, mail love and mechanics. So we'll see...

happy baking,
xo
esther

at last, cherry dumplings

Those of you who have been reading this blog for a long time might remember how Sarah and I tried so many times to go and eat at Cafe Armenia, a restaurant we'd come across when eating Korean in Carnegie. As with all holy grail type quests, we had been rebuffed many times. This was a restaurant that seemed to think nothing of ignoring its own opening hours, or having private functions... anything to stop us getting in and trying all the morsels that tempted us on the menu: beans with walnuts and garlic, pickles, pancakes and of course, cherry dumplings.

But readers, you will be glad to know that your nights of the laminex table can rest now because on Thursday Cafe Armenia was open! I would like to state for the record, that this is the raddest restaurant in town. It was like eating in someone's lounge room. Picture a small shopfront cafe; folky paintings of Armenia (we guess) on the wall, some odd carved knicknacks, plastic tablecloths. The place looks like it's been there since the 60s, even though it's only been opened a year or two. Down one side there's a bench and shelves topped with plates, plates like your grandma might have had, with gold rims half worn off. A plasticy stereo. Up the back some old men and a woman rant at each other from separate tables. In the middle a family with one child eat some seriously meaty looking soup from a big tureen. And over all of this hangs a big black cloud smelling unmistakeably of barbecue. Yep, the perfect place for a hot date. Sarah and I almost wet ourselves with excitement that we were actually in there!

Before we ordered we were served a big plate of flat bread with a little jug of a salsa like red sauce. Very oniony and delicious. We ordered most of the vegetarian options, forgoing potato dumplings to leave room for cherry. I ordered a mineral water - they brought us a Coles brand 1.25l bottle. Food came really fast - a bowl of delicous red bean, walnut and garlic spread. Then a plate of mixed pickles - "hot" he warned us. "It's okay, we like hot." "Eat it", he urged. I nibbled an end and nodded my approval. He seemed satisfied that we were tough enough, and wandered off. Next came two pancakes - much like blintzes, they were rolled around a ricotta and sultana filling and crisply fried. Served with sour cream on top they were awesome. Then there was a big fat cabbage roll, full of rice and yummy things.

I worried we were getting full. But the unobtrusive (absent) service gave us plenty of time to digest. And finally we had enough room to order cherry dumplings. In Poland these would be described as pierogi, or in Russia, as pelmeni - basically they were little half moons of a pasta-like dough wrapped around a great cherry filling. There was bite, there was real cherry lumps, and flavour. Served with sour cream they were about as heavenly an end to this holy quest as we could have hoped for.

So viva the Armenians. I didn't know much about them - somewhere between the Middle East and Eastern Europe? Turns out it's kinda in the middle of Turkey, Iran, Georgia and Azerbijan. Prone to invasion like my poor Poland, but I guess there are culinary benefits to having all those armies passing through. You can tell at Cafe Armenia, that it must be a land where they've taken the best from all around them. Meat eaters would be very happy too - lots of crazy stews and swords of bbq meat. But we were rapt too. I think maybe divey is my favourite restaurant aesthetic and it only made me happier when Sarah went out the back to the toilet and reported that the kitchen was like a family one, complete with piles of boiled potatoes everywhere and an old lady with bright red lipstick and a ciggy hanging out of her mouth.

come fry with me...

Feeling oily? John Travolta is, and so am I.

"A deep fried party? Who's stupid idea was that?" That's what I was asked on Sunday. Well, I think it was mine. And it rocked.

Yes kids, on Saturday Bindy and I went through with our crazy plan to have a deep fry party. And although it was really nuts, I feel a strange sense of smug self-satisfaction. I fear it says something bad about my life that turning myself and a dozen friends into ill greaseballs is what gives me a sense of achievement.

We made heaps of yummy stuff. We fried. We ate. We drank beer. We clutched our bellies. We groaned. Then we went off and partied like maniacs, with lots of grease to soak up all the liquor. And I woke up feeling awesome on Sunday morning. So who said oil is so bad for you?



Here's the menu:

• Arancini - lemon risotto rolled around mozarella and then crumbed
  
• Crumbed eggplant sticks and mushrooms
  
• Beer battered cauliflower and broccoli
• Battered olives
• Crumbed camembert
• Parsnip and sweet potato chips
• Battered mini-Mars and Bounty bars
• Battered Tim Tams
  
• Pineapple and banana fritters

Oh, it seems like there was more than that. I dunno. There was great aioli, sambal and pickles. Oh yes, we did batter and fry a dill pickle too. Tim Tams didn't really work but the olives were surprisingly good. I was happy with the batter. The arancini were awesome, golden and crunchy, then ricey with gooey centres of mozarella. And I was very impressed with the Japanese "bread" crumbs I used - extra crunchy.

There wasn't as much crazy random deep frying as I thought - you know, people pulling things out of the fridge and battering them. But it was really fun gathering round Bindy's cute 70s deep fryer (strangely called "Cook n' Clean" even though it did no cleaning). Another culinary dream achieved... next stop, bomb alaska?

I just feel bad that Bindy's house smells like a chip shop.

come fly with me....

Well, it has been a mega crazy weekend. So much fun I feel quite manic... Among many exciting happenings was my first decorated cake experience.

It was Marion's 30th birthday party on Sunday so I offered to make a cake. I was shocked when she said that Andy, her "I can't cook" boyf, claimed to have it "under control."

The next day I had about 5 phone calls from Andy looking for help and advice. He wanted to do a cake that showed Marion in either a sports car or a plane and he was thinking of just buying cakes and icing from Safeway. "Safeway? Nooooo!" I screamed, knowing that Marion would be very unhappy to cut open her cake and find it bland and foamy. So I stupidly offered to make the cakes and help him put it together.

5 cake batters, 4 bowls of icing and hours of gruelling labour later we had a cake that looked a bit like a 5 year old had designed it.



But Marion and the crowd were suitably impressed and at least it tasted delicious. For the fusillage I used 3 lemon cakes and the icing was flavoured with fresh lime juice. The wings are a simple chocolate cake with a thick icing made from real chocolate. Luckily both the cakes were pretty solid and easily carved by Andy, who did do a good job of wielding the knife. And the punters were more than happy to gobble it all up, leaving things looking a little sad.



Making the cake made me realise how the woman in The Hoursfeels when she gets all the crumbs in her icing. I'm sooo not a perfectionist but I was incredibly frustrated by how the icing dripped everywhere, fell off and generally looked a bit wrong. Luckily we served the cake in a dimly lit bar. Still, this decorating business sure is hard work and it gave me a heap more respect for my old housie Nat, aka The Cake Lady (scroll down for a pic), who used to spend weeks putting together her detailed little cake sculptures.

If anyone wants to cake recipes let me know and I'll post them. I mainly chose them because they are really easy to make and quite firm, but they're definitely good stand-by cakes to have in your repertoire.

Prune and Whisky Cake

I'm not sure if I can convey how wonderful this cake is. It's amazingly moist, with a great springy texture and the glaze makes it glamourous and just sticky enough. Plus, springing out of my excellent new bundt/kugelhupf tin it looks amazing.

As I mentioned in my last post, I did have a few problems with people who have weird issues about prunes. I blame those bad American college movies where they make prune/laxative jokes. But I really doubt prunes have any more dietary effects than dried apricots - they just got a weird reputation. Anyway, maybe you should tell people it's a plum and whisky cake. Half the people at the party I took this to didn't even know that prunes are dried plums. Although maybe it's better to tell everyone what's in it and then there's more cake for those who don't have such stupid prejudices.

With that disclaimer done, may I heartily encourage you to make this cake - it is just so damn good and mine turned out perfectly risen and formed with very little effort.

Prune and Whisky Cake
(adapted from the excellent Moosewood Restaurant Book of Desserts)

For the cake you'll need:

• 2 cups pitted prunes
• 0.25 cup scotch whisky
• 2 cups water
• 0.75 cup vegie oil
• 1.5 cups packed brown sugar
• 4 large eggs
• 2 tsp vanilla
• 2.75 cups unbleached white flour
• 2 tsp baking soda
• 1 tsp salt
• 0.5 tsp ground allspice
• 1 tsp ground nutmeg
• 1 tsp ground cloves
• 1 tsp ground cloves
• 0.5 tsp ground cardamon
• 2 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1 cup buttermilk (I used sour cream thinned with milk because that's what I had)

For the glaze you need:

• 1 cup sugar
• 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
• 0.25 cup more scotch
• 0.25 cup liquid from the prune cooking

In a small saucepan, combine the prunes, whisky and water. Simmer for 20 minutes or until the prunes are very tender. Drain, keeping the liquid. Coarsely chop the prunes and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 350F. Butter and flour a 10 inch bundt pan. Set aside.

In a large bowl, cream together the oil and brown sugar with an electric mixer. Add the eggs and vanilla and beat well. In a separate bowl, combine the flour and other dry ingredients. Add the flour mixture the batter, beating until well blended. Pour in the buttermilk and beat until just smooth. Fold in the chopped prunes.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for at least an hour (mine took 15 minutes more). If you stick a knife in it should come out clean. Now cool the cake in a pan for 10 minutes. Then invert onto a serving platter and cool for 15 minutes more - still in the tin. Then remove the pan.

To make the glaze - combine all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Cook on medium-high heat for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat. Pierce the top of the cake with a skewer or toothpick in 10 places. Slowly pour the glaze over the cake, allowing it to soak in.

Serve to ooohs and aaahs. (with or without mentioning what's in it.)

is baking becoming a problem?

Nell asked me this yesterday when I told her I was going home to bake for the third time in the week. "Hmmm. Every 48 hours." she said "Could be a cause for concern."

Do I bake when I feel upset or angry?
Possibly. But it works.

Does my baking cause injuries?
Well, just a couple of burns. And a belly.

Am I binge baking?
No I never bake more than 6 cakes a night, unless you count cupcakes.

Are friends or co-workers worried about my baking?
Hell no, I don't hear any complaints from those doing the eatin.

On Wednesday, for Eve's birthday I made these cupcakes.
What is with that American thing where white cakes are Angel food and Chocolate ones are Devil's food. White-supremacy with your baking? Yes please. But the cupcakes were great. Very childhood tasting. And they travelled well so I could take them to dinner.

Friday, I made an amazing Prune and Whiskey cake in my brand-new kugelhupf tin.
(Or bundt tin if you prefer.) This was an adaptation from the prune and armagnac recipe in my desserts book. I'll post the recipe soon as I can because it was a winner - it looked awesome and was moist, sticky and irresistible. (Despite all the rude comments people made about prunes... c'mon, they're just dried plums!)

And yesterday I baked this cake - a Spicy Chocolate Gingerbread.
I think all the other perfectly risen, well formed, easy to turn out goodies had made me over confident. This brought me back down to earth - it sunk in the middle like a swimming pool. I blame the weirdo silicone bakeware my Mum gave me. But it tasted bloody delicious, had a real chilli kick and was gobbled up appreciatively by housemates and my guest.

This week I think I'll have to make some savoury foods.

drooling and mashing

Well I've been spending far too much time cruising the innahnet looking at other people's blogs. It's enough to make you drool. Of course I don't have any sensible way of keeping track of them all - I just jump around and then forget where the good ones are. But here's a little roundup. I won't be adding all these to my links - no offense it's just there's so many better collections of food links out there. And discovering is half the fun.

With its reviews of cheapo dumpling joints and chinese bakery good Grab Your Fork is right up my dark alley. If only it was Melbourne based instead of Sydney.

You'll notice I've been referencing Niki lately. Since the treacle stout cake I feel I owe her bigtime because that is one recipe that will stick with me.

Neiko's blog Nordljus is insanely pornographic - you have to see these food photos to believe 'em. Some of the recipes are a bit too fancy for me to ever try but I'm going to make the brown bread icecream tomorrow I think.

What I Cooked Last Night is a fellow Melbournian. And gave props to Scheherezade, my favourite old school restaurant. So they get a return visit.

And lastly, I love the writing at Pie Queen. The post on Red Velvet cake, Dorothy Allison and trash cakes was great. I wanna get to know this queen.

And now for a great picture:

It's no wonder my housemates were worried there's an alien in the house. But don't freak out - it's just celeriac. I think I'm gonna get off this computer now and go cook this little baby up. Probably the same way I made it last weekend - boiled with potatoes and a some whole garlics. Mashed with soy milk, butter, mustard and lots of salt. You know this cold weather sure is making me cook. If you're good soon I'll post my killer chickpea dish which I made again last night.

chocolate chilli time

You want more chocolate goodness? Well so do I, and I like my chocolate hot!

Yesterday Bindy and I finally made the brunch I've been planning ever since my sister gave me a churerra for christmas. We had churros and thick dark cinnamon hot chocolate. Churros are one of my favourite types of donuts. I think the translation that the churrera gave of "extruded fritte-finger" doesn't quite do justice to these long crisp fried delights. Ours weren't perfect, being a little too crunchy and not quite moist enough in the middle but they were pretty damn fine. Washed down with some excellent thick spicy hot chocolate they were a feasty brunch.

Anyway, for those of you who aren't lucky enough to have a churrera, or who don't want to be deep frying, I thought I'd include another excellent way to eat chocolate with a latin touch.

I first got excited about chocolate with chilli when I tried Charmaine's choc-chilli ice cream way back in high school. It was a hot fave for over a decade and I remain devoted to this taste combination, even as it has gone mainstream. (witness the chocolate chilli Tim Tams if you will.)

These cookies are a bit of a pain to make, mainly because they need flipping over, but they're not difficult and they are extremely popular. On a long car trip to Lismore one summer Camilla managed to polish off a few dozen in the front seat before the rest of us had even had seconds. Luckily it makes close to 12 dozen cookies.

This recipe is adapted from Mexico: The Vegetarian Table, a book well worth finding.

Chocolate Chilli Cookies

• 270g dark chocolate

• 1/4 cup water

• 4 cups flour

• 1/2 cup cocoa

• 2 tsp pure chilli powder

• 1 tsp ground cinnamon

• 1/2 tsp cayenne

• 1/4 tsp salt

• 12 tbsps butter (1 1/2 sticks)

• 1 1/2 cups sugar

• 1 tbsp vanilla extract

• 2 eggs

• 1/2 cup pure icing sugar

Melt the chocolate over a double boiler. Set aside. Sift together the flour, cocoa, chilli, cinnamon, cayenned and salt. Set aside. Using electric beaters if you have them, beat together the butter, sugar and vanilla in a large bowl. Beat in the eggs and water then the chocolate. Add the dry ingredients in a few batches, beating it really well after each addition. It should make a pretty solid but slightly moist dough.

Divide the dough into 4 equal parts. On a lightly floured surface roll each into a big brown poo of a log – it should be about 12 inches long and 1 1/2 inches high. Place the logs on a tray, cover with a plastic bag or something and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or up to 2 – they need to be firm but not hard or the next bit won’t work.

When ready to bake preheat yr oven to 350F. Slice the dough logs into 1/4 inch slices and arrange on ungreased baking trays. Bake them until they go a bit lighter and are crusty around the edges – 6 minutes. Now take them out and, trying not to burn yourself, flip them over. Bake for another 8 minutes or until they’re not wet in the middle. You might want to undercook them a bit for extra chew - or try different timings on different batches and see what you like.

In any case, when you think they're done remove 'em from the oven and let them cool on the tray for 5 minutes before moving to a plate. Sift the icing sugar over them. (I normally skip that bit). These keep fairly well in a airtight cookie jar if you want to take them to school for play lunch or something.

the recipe everyone wants

Chocolate Guinness Cake
Prompted by Niki's excellent stout cake, I thought I'd post my recipe for a guinness cake. This came to me from my sister, who got it off her friend Maria, who got it off a woman named Karen. Which just goes to show how good a cake it is - the kind where everyone wants the recipe. Like Niki's cake it's a piece of piss to make and very very moist. Excellent for chocolate cravings and also a good cake to take to dinners or whatever - people always seem quite impressed by it.

My chocolate cake rule is it ain’t a chocolate cake if it doesn’t have chocolate in it. I won’t stand for none of those brown cakes that just have a few tablespoons of cocoa in them. This is the cake exception that proves the rule. I think it's because the guinness makes it so moist, and then you pour heaps of chocolate over the top!

You be needing:

• 175g plain flour

• a pinch of baking powder

• 1 tsp bicarb (baking soda)

• 110g butter

• 250g dark brown sugar

• 2 eggs, beaten up

• 200ml Guinness (or another stout)
  

• 55g cocoa

• 200gm dark chocolate

• 1/2 cup cream

• 1 extra tbsp butter

Now, line your cake tin well with some spare paper and preheat your oven to 180C. You need three bowls. In the first one sift together the flour, baking powder and bicarb. In a biggish one cream the butter, sugar and eggs. In the third bowl mix together the Guinness and cocoa – don’t beat it too much as you want the Guinness to stay bubbly. Now mix all three bowls together, adding them alternately to the biggest bowl. Stir it as little as possible. Pour it into your tin and wack it in the oven. It should take 45min until it’s not gooey in the middle. Leave it to cool for a bit and prepare the icing: in a double boiler melt the chocolate, add the cream and extra butter. Pour this chocolatey goodness all over the cake. It will set a bit as it cools but it’s good wet too. Top with strawberries or kiwi slices or something for true fanciness.

baking again

Well I know I've been a little slack of lately - I've barely been cooking - both because of running around like crazy and because lately Texta's mum has been visiting and cooking all day every day. Now, I'm not about to complain about a constant variety of curries, chutneys and delicious spicy fried potatoes but I do feel a little ungrounded when I don't cook.

So Saturday morning I forced my way into the kitchen, grabbed a spare stove burner and a corner of the table and whipped up this cake from a fellow Australian blogger. It's a treacle, stout, pear and spice cake... oh yes! It's a dark, moist gingery cake and the pears are delicious. I've been looking for a good pear cake recipe for a while so I am very very happy. And as some of you would know from my chocolate guinness cake days, I love a good stout cake. Of course, the fact that it is incredibly easy to make was pretty nice too. I suspect it's one of those cakes that is virtually foolproof: it doesn't have any egg white whipping or tricky bits. So expect me to be bringing this to all sorts of events this autumn.

And maybe I'll post the chocolate guinness cake recipe soon as a comparison.

full as a goog?

I was amused to see a debate at this noticeboard about what "full as a goog" meant and what the hell a goog is anyway. Most people seem to agree with my understanding - that a goog comes from a googy egg (?) and to be "full as a goog" is to be stuffed full of food. It was nice to find out that it can also mean that you are very drunk - full up of grog I guess.

If you want to get full as a goog but can't afford cicciolina you could do worse than a big bowl of noodle soup. This genre is one of my favourites but as usual I'm a bit of a snob - there's nothing worse than a big bowl of creamy orange flavoured soup with a few fat noodles masquerading as a laksa. So two of my favourite Melbourne noodle soup haunts, one old and one new:

the penang coffee house is where I had my first laksa and it served me well for the first 16 years of my life until I fled the Eastern suburbs. The laksa here wins on taste alone, it's a complex spicy broth, more brown than orange. There's also more thin rice noodles than yellow noodles which suits me, a good range of vegies and lots of squishy fried tofu puffs. At $9 or so it's no longer the cheapest option but it is the best. I remember a time when we used to get it take away, and then if there were leftovers I ate them for breakfast... mmmm. I also love that it has pineapple in it, though I know that might gross some people (hi Sarah) out.

Penang Coffee House is at 395 Burwood Road, Hawthorn near the corner of Glenferrie Rd, which is just near Swinburne.

kimchi tray is a new addition to my list. This little korean joint seems to be an offspring of kimchi grandma and offers a smaller range of dishes that come on a tray (ah ha) in more of a quick meal environment. Sadly, you only get 2 side dishes. I dropped in with Mum for an excellent kimchi noodle soup. It was just on the comfortable side of my chilli threshold, full of excellent firm rice noodles, lots of kimchi and some shredded vegies.

Unfortunately one of my side dishes was kimchi, which was a bit redundant while the other one was a couple of slices of orange - made for a good little palate cleanser anyway. The soup was so damn good though that I didn't mind. At about $8 it's going to be my new favourite quick city dinner and it's one that is guaranteed to make you full as a goog.

Kimchi tray is on Flinders st, between Elizabeth and Queen.

and a bit more eating

Last night marked 2 years of me and Sarah (a fact I feel slightly embarassed to mention here). It seemed only right that we celebrate by doing what we have done so well - being hot and eating a lot. So we started in the spa and steam room at the St Kilda Sea Baths and moved on to Cicciolina for a damn fine dinner.

Cicciolina doesn't take bookings (too cool?) but they do have a great back bar to wait in, complete with big mafia style booths and snazzy barmen.

It's probably good they didn't have a table for us, or we would have missed out on the arancini, from the bar menu. These little golden crumbed rice balls were the best I've had. Crunchy on the outside, soft and flavourful in the middle and served with a great aioli. The cocktails weren't too rotten either - I had a great one involving raspberry puree, chambord and tequila while Sarah had a "seedy pash" (typical!) full of passionfruit, cranberry, vodka and grand marnier.

So yes, we were a little drunk and quite a bit hungry by the time we got our table. The dinner food was just as great. We had:

* blue cheese and leek tart: very strong cheesy taste, lovely pastry

* fried kefi cheese: made totally excellent by a fennel crumb

* shitake, spinach and truffle oil risotto - oh yes, mushroomy goodness

* salad w goats cheese, croutons, pine nuts - okay, so maybe we didn't need to eat this much cheese. but damn i think this was the first time i've loved croutons in a salad.

* apple tart tatin - absolutely worth killing for. apple in big chunks that were sooo melty.

*fig and grappa ice cream - mmmm. what is grappa anyway? oh.

So yes, we were two very full puppies. But very very happy. I love how Cicciolina is posh in terms of food (and sadly, prices) and the service is very good but it feels casual and not snooty. The decor is just up my alley too; lots of nice wood, good chairs and quite cluttered so it feels more european than your average minimalist yuck fancy place. So if you have a bit of spare cash or a special occasion go - just go early or be prepared to wait. Next time we might try just going to the bar for drinks and arancini - and then seeing if we can make them give us some of that tart!

garlic anyone

Well, i'm not feeling very good at the moment. whether it's because of brain damage caused by my big bike stack or something else i dunno. But it made me think of this good tonic.

Garlic Soup
Not much beats this Mexican garlic soup. I forgot how good it is until Shane came and stayed and I made him make it. He made it over and over and it always went down a treat. It's warming, golden and delicous.

Particularly good if you’ve been being a trash bag, then on Monday you start to feel crappy and suddenly want to act like you’re taking care of yourself by eating good warming garlicky food. Although I know I said it about pickle soup, this is also definitely vegetarian jewish penicillin (chicken soup).

The key is to buy good garlic if you can (not that imported Chinese crap) and be really careful not to fry it for too long. It's basically foolproof but if you burn or overcook the garlic you better start again or it'll taste bitter and crap.

You will need
olive oil
1 whole head of garlic
1/2 baguette
2 ancho chilies*, crushed dried chilli or good chilli powder
4 medium tomatoes (tinned ok if you have to)
7 cups vegie stock
salt
sour cream

Separate the garlic cloves, peel and chop them coarsely (while muttering coarse language.) Chop the tomatoes into smallish chunks. Slice the baguette into 1cm slices. If using the ancho chilies stem and seed them and chop them coarsely too.

Heat 1/4 cup of oil in a large heavy frypan until smoking. Add the garlic and stir over medium heat for one minute – or until lightly toasted. Don’t let it go more than pale golden. Transfer the garlic to a large soup pot.

Add as many slices of bread to the frypan as will fit in one layer and fry for a minute or so until it goes nice and golden and a bit crunchy. Turn it over and do the other side. Drain on some old paper and set aside. Do all the bread this way. You will probably need to add a bit of extra oil.

Now place the tomatoes and chilli in the frypan and stir until the tomatoes are a bit wilted (1-2 minutes). If you’re using the chilli powder use 1 – 2 teaspoons, the soup should be warm but not hot, chilli wise. Transfer to the soup pot and add the stock and salt. Bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes or until the garlic is soft.

Ladle the piping hot soup into bowls and garnish each serve with fried bread and a dollop of sour cream. Serve to your adoring housemates, friends and lovers.

* These are a dried chilli available from Mexican and Central American suppliers. In Melbourne try Casa Latina on Johnson St.

ogorki a-hoy

The picture above is an old German satirical picture from the wonderful Food Mania. I tried to figure it out but I couldn't. Something about the economy going to shit and immigration? Anyway, some gratuitous stories about pickles to accompany it...

1) On Saturday night people were amused at John's Russian party that I had brought a jar of pickles with me. But the pickle chaser is my favourite - nothing better gets the taste of a shot of cheap vodka out of your mouth and nothing complements good vodka better.

2) When my sister Marion was seeing The Pianist in Poland there was a man sitting behind who didn't have very good eyesight - a woman accompanying him was explaining things to him. The mood was sombre and grim, as you'd expect in a holocaust film, until a scene which featured a big jar of pickles. "What are they?" the man said "Ogorki" the woman whispered. "What?"
"OGORKI!". I still think of this and chuckle whenever I see a jar of Polski Ogorki - the only style pickle to eat.

3) When I was about 12 we took my friend Chris Evans on a family camping trip. He had never eaten pickles before and had to be goaded into trying them. He thought they were really weird. I thought he was a freak for not loving them. Luckily my friends now have better taste. On a recent camping trip with 4 mates we had to buy 2 jars of Bick's Polski Ogorki everytime we hit a town.

baking time

Lamingtons!
A while back I noticed that someone had ended up at this site searching for "lamington recipe" - which sadly, I couldn't provide at that time. But now I can.

I think lamingtons are pretty Australian, so for those of you who don't know why I'm getting so excited that I have to use exclamation marks I better explain. Lamos are basically little cubes of a light sponge cake (or genoise for the fancy bakers) that are dipped in a chocolate mixture and rolled in shredded coconut. They are a staple of the old school bakery. Sometimes they have a layer of jam in the middle which is controversial. Sometimes cream too which is just yuck. My beloved Sarah is pretty lamington obsessed so we always end up with one in the car on any country bakery mission. When they're good they really are much better than the sum of their parts.

Sarah used this recipe and made some for our afternoon tea that were pretty damn sublime - a million times better than any bakery lamington. It's adapted from an old magazine recipe I found at my house which was for orange lamingtons and involved jelly crystals - yuk. But after Sarah's first recipe resulted in a sunken 1 inch high cake we tried this sponge recipe and it hit the spot - firm enough to cut but deliciously light. I made the chocolate part up.

Sponge:
8 free range eggs, separated
2 extra egg yolks
190g caster sugar
80g plain flour
40g cornflour
40g melted butter (cooled)

Icing:
cocoa
boiling water
icing sugar
1 tbsp butter
1.5 cups of shredded coconut

Preheat the oven to 180C (350F). Beat the 10 yolks with 90g of the sugar until very pale (5 - 10 minutes). Transfer to a large bowl. Sift the flour and cornflour three times, then fold into the yolk mixture.
Beat the egg whites with the remaining sugar until stiff and glossy. Fold three quarters of the whites into the yolk mixture. Mix the melted butter with the remaining whites until well combined, then folk into the yolk mixture.
You will need a big wide rectangle baking tin (about 30 cm x 25 cm and at least 3 cm deep). Lime it with greaseproof paper and pour the mixture in. Bake for 12 - 15 minutes, or until golden and spongy to touch. Turn out onto a wire rack and cover with a tea towel to cool.

To make the icing melt the butter in the boiling water. Pour it over the icing sugar and cocoa and stir until dissolved. It should be a very dark brown - if not add more cocoa.

Cut the sponge into 8cm cubes. Dip them in the chocolate liquid - letting it soak in just a bit - and roll in coconut. This bit can be a bit messy - try forks or skewers for holding the cake. Let them set a bit before serving.

eggplant goodness

Me and Nell are working on our cookbook again. Which means more cooking and damnit, more eating.

We couldn't decide if Eggplant Parmigiana was worth including or not - it was something we made a hell of a lot when we were teenagers, but not something I make much anymore. Also I figure it's something most people know how to make. So last night I made a trial batch and the verdict was definitive - delicious and well worth including.

Sarah was a bit surprised that I made it in a kind of layered lasagne style, but this is how I was served it at (the authentically Italian) Sonia's place and I think it's infinitely superior to the dry style which is like a pseudo chicken parmigiana [how did this poor dish become some gross skip pub food?].

This is perfect for when you are craving something baked and tomatoey - the flavours all meld together and the polenta crust gives it a great texture. Mine probably tasted extra good because I made the sauce from homegrown tomatoes - but if you don't have any you could use cheap market roma's or just tinned. Make sure that your sauce has been properly cooked up though, with lots of onion, garlic and simmering time.

I haven't included quantities because this is an easy recipe to expand.. just allow about 1 eggplant for every 2 people. It takes a little bit of time, but it's not hard at all.

You will need:

• A batch of homemade tomato pasta sauce - about 2 cups per eggplant
• Eggplants (I used 3 medium sized ones)
• Mozzarella (a good white one from an italian supermarket)
• Polenta or fine cornmeal (a few cups)
• An egg or two
• Olive oil for frying
• A little knob of parmesan

Now...

1. Slice the eggplant lengthwise, about 1.5 cm thick
2. Sprinkle the slices generously with salt and leave them to sweat for about 15 minutes- this will make the eggplant more tender.
3. Cut the mozzarella lengthwise into thin slices.
   
4. Find a casserole/lasagna dish - choose a dish that will give you 2 - 3 layers of eggplant.
5. Preheat the oven to 200C (400F)
6. Rinse the eggplant slices and pat them dry with a clean teatowel.
7. Beat the eggs in a wide bowl.
8. Put a cup of polenta on a plate.
9. Put a heavy frypan on the stove and heat a thin layer of oil. (If you can, it's probably good to have two pans going at once)
10. Now dunk the eggplant in egg, and then in the polenta - getting a good crust all round.
11. Fry the slices in batches until golden brown - this bit is annoying but you don't need to do a perfect job - it's okay if they're a bit patchy or not fully cooked as they still get baked.
    
12. If the oil gets too smokey you may need to get rid of the burnt bits of polenta and start again.
13. Put a thin smear of tomato sauce at the bottom of the casserole dish and then a layer of fried eggplant. Top the slices with mozzarella and more sauce. Then add another layer of eggplant and repeat. Finish with a decent layer of sauce and top with grated parmesan.
14. Bake for 30 or more minutes or until the sauce is bubbling around the edges and the top has gone brown and a bit crisp. If you need to turn the heat up to brown it that's fine.
15. Serve with a green salad and some bread for mopping up all that yummy sauce.

Alternatively, tv fans might want to make The Sopranos' recipe... which doesn't look that good at all.