Killer says it's landing pain. Better than "adjustment angst". Whatever you call it though there's days that are ok, days that suck, moments of beautiful light and times that don't really bear describing. Then there's cooking. When I was away I realised I often undervalue the things that really matter to me. Cooking and gardening aren't just hobbies - they're work in the real sense of the thing... labour that creates something. My hands need to move, I need to feel I'm producing something and we all need to eat.
Wednesday night dinner... me and S. had to meet and talk. There are some things you can't say via text message. I changed the menu plan 5 times. I wasn't sure I wanted to make something really amazing if we would both feel too sick to eat. But then I wanted to make something amazing.
Crazy Water, Pickled Lemons still hasn't made it back to the library so I decided on the piadina with caramelised onions, walnuts and taleggio. Piadina is an Italian flatbread that was ridiculously easy to make - mix flour, oil and water; knead; roll out; fry in rounds. I'm cheese mad right now and taleggio might be my new favourite indulgence. It's creamy almost like brie but with more of an aged blue taste. And bubbling under the grill over a spread of caramelised onions and walnuts on the piadina... well it was so good it tasted amazing even on a clenched tight stomach. Maybe I was overdoing it because I needed to keep busy that afternoon or maybe it's that I don't know how to cook for two. But I couldn't help myself from cooking up some garden fresh zucchinis with mint and chilli, and Abla's fried cauliflower with tahini sauce. Rocket salad added the peppery greenness needed.
Later... things were going ok. As ok as can be expected. And there was this cake to bring us back to the table. It's good cake. The kind of cake that comforts, doesn't scream about itself but impresses quietly. I'm a big fan of yoghurt cakes and they're stupidly easy. That ain't a bad thing.
Yoghurt and Walnut Cake with Coffee Syrup
from Crazy Water Pickled Lemons
This cake is meant to be made the day before but I didn't read that until it was too late. It was still good on the day but better the next.
175g butter
175g caster sugar
2 eggs
175g plain yoghurt (preferably Greek style. the new Chris's yoghurt is awesome)
175g shelled walnuts
175g self-raising flour
1 tsp baking powder
icing sugar
For the syrup:
275ml strong espresso coffee
75g caster sugar
2 tbsp brandy if you got it (I didn't)
1. Preheat your oven to 180C
2. Take 125g of the walnuts and chop em roughly. Yeah rough, they like it like that. Take the remainder and grind them in a mortar and pestle or somehow.
3. Cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, and continue to beat. Stir in the yoghurt and nuts.
4. Sift the flour and baking powder and fold into the batter. Pour into a greased and lined tin about 8 inches across. Bake for 40 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean.
5. Mix the coffee with the sugar and boil until it's reduced by half. Add the brandy.
6. While the cake is still warm pierce it all over with the skewer and pour the coffee syrup on. Leave in the tin overnight if you're that organised.
7. Unmould the cake and dust it with icing sugar. Serve it with more yoghurt or maybe even with the Leche Merengada you just made? (see below)
Friday, January 13, 2006
crash landing
Labels: cakes
better than ice cream?
Ok, I've been wanting to post this since Chrismukkah because it's one of those little secrets I wanna share. The picture is awful I know - the white blob is what we're talking about, and then that's Marion's lovely pudding, and my new shirt.
Anyway, Leche Merengada is just one of the tastiest and refreshingest things ever. It seems really classy somehow and is perfect for the end of a massive meal when ice cream might be a bit too much but sorbet just wouldn't work with the pudding. It's from Crazy Water, Pickled Lemons which we got out from the library again. I fell in love with that book all over again and this is just one of the reasons why.
Leche Merengada just means "meringued milk" and it's easier too than a custard based ice cream. You don't need an ice cream maker or nothing. So if it's hot where you are trust me on this little secret and get to it.
425 ml milk
150 ml runny cream (not thickened)
150g caster sugar
zest of 1 lemon
1 cinnamon stick
1 tbsp brandy
3 egg whites
ground cinnamon
1. Put the milk, cream and 100g of the sugar into a saucepan with the lemon and cinnamon stick. Bring to just under the boil, remove from the heat and let it infuse for about 40 minutes. Strain through a sieve and add the brandy.
2. Whisk the egg whites with the remaining sugar until stiff. Fold this into the cream and milk mixture - it will seem impossible to incorporate, but don't worry, as it will all get beaten together during the freezing process. Now put it into the freezer and just beat it with electric beaters or a food processor every hour or two until it looks good. Maybe 4 - 6 or more hours? Or use an ice-cream machine if ya got one.
3. Sprinkle with cinnamon before serving or if you're feeling really hip the book suggests you can serve it with a shot of iced espresso over the top for a "blanco y negro."
Labels: ice cream
Monday, January 09, 2006
walls and all
Reading the Brooklyn Dispatch i find this disturbing article from the NYTimes about architecture and the West Bank barrier wall. Should I be surprised to read General Chavez from the Israeli Defense Forces' Operational Theory Research Institute quoting Deleuze & Guattari? Talking of smooth and striated spaces, air surveillance and swarming soldiers.
And it's just a week or two ago I was learning bout the political distinctions over at liz's blog. Striated space seemed like the trouble then.. and things seemed more hopeful, more poetic. It's kinda scary to see leftist theory regurgitated by the IDF. Kinda very.
Ok, I'm no theory head it's true.. but i'm still trying to get smarter and Killer wants to go to Queeruption this year in Tel Aviv so it's time to get thinking, don't you think?
Wednesday, December 28, 2005
back. and fuller than ever
Folks i've missed you.
6 glorious months staying with friends, cooking on fires and a campstove that had a tendency to burst into flames. I missed baking.
Here's Rocky the crocodile oven mit with the first of two pies i've made in recent sydney visits. I'm hoping to get some kinda reputation in sin city. I made the pecan pie in december using stephanie the pie queen's recipe. It was some excellent pie, squooshy and caramellish with a bit more body than most because of the eggs i think. It should come with a warning though - this pie is almost all sugar products. We had to lie down afterwards but hey, there are worse things than a post-pie nap.
The best bit is that i'm getting over my fear of pastry. I used the pie crust recipe that stephanie has for her apple pie and well, it just worked. No fussin. It made two crusts so of course i had to come back to sydney to use the one i stashed in the lander st freezer. Last night i used it up with a cherry pie to celebrate all the plump and tasty cherries around. Couldn't find a recipe i loved so i made one up. It was delicious and lemony though i didn't calculate how many cherries i'd need very well. So it was more of a cherry tart - not quite deep enough to qualify as pie. Maybe tarts are more classy anyway?
Well, i'm out of training with this blog business but i'll be back soon with the successful chrismukkah recipes. 'til then, if you want to give it a go:
(She's My) Cherry Pie
1 pie crust
1 egg yolk
100 g ground almonds
lots of fresh cherries - maybe a kilo?
zest of one lemon
white sugar
Roll out and blind bake your pie crust for about 15 minutes at 190C. Then brush it with egg yolk and bake it until golden. This will seal it so it doesn't go soggy. Meanwhile pit the cherries, getting red juice sprayed over everything. Stick them in a pot with the lemon juice and a half handful of sugar. Cook them just til they collapse a bit. When the pie crust is done cover it with the almond meal. Add the cherries, but maybe not all the juice from the pot. Top with cute designs made in leftover pastry and bake at 180 for about 40 - 50 minutes. Let it sit a moment and then devour with thick cream or icecream. If you're lucky like us friends will drop by to help with the devouring.
Labels: pies
Monday, July 04, 2005
au revoir...
hey folks,
i think the time has come to say goodbye. I'm leaving on Thursday for 6 months of road tripping around this crazy land so I don't think there'll be much blogging. And probably, there won't be too much high quality cooking for a while either. So thanks for reading, it's been fun to do.
If full as a goog does return it'll probably be in a different form - i like writing about food but i'm a bit sick of it too. I used to think I should keep all my other thoughts for zines and letters but lately i wanna be a part of the thinking blog world... wanna write all the stuff that's been taking up my headspace like thinking about infatuation, booty dancing, mail love and mechanics. So we'll see...
happy baking,
xo
esther
Saturday, June 25, 2005
at last, cherry dumplings
Those of you who have been reading this blog for a long time might remember how Sarah and I tried so many times to go and eat at Cafe Armenia, a restaurant we'd come across when eating Korean in Carnegie. As with all holy grail type quests, we had been rebuffed many times. This was a restaurant that seemed to think nothing of ignoring its own opening hours, or having private functions... anything to stop us getting in and trying all the morsels that tempted us on the menu: beans with walnuts and garlic, pickles, pancakes and of course, cherry dumplings.
But readers, you will be glad to know that your nights of the laminex table can rest now because on Thursday Cafe Armenia was open! I would like to state for the record, that this is the raddest restaurant in town. It was like eating in someone's lounge room. Picture a small shopfront cafe; folky paintings of Armenia (we guess) on the wall, some odd carved knicknacks, plastic tablecloths. The place looks like it's been there since the 60s, even though it's only been opened a year or two. Down one side there's a bench and shelves topped with plates, plates like your grandma might have had, with gold rims half worn off. A plasticy stereo. Up the back some old men and a woman rant at each other from separate tables. In the middle a family with one child eat some seriously meaty looking soup from a big tureen. And over all of this hangs a big black cloud smelling unmistakeably of barbecue. Yep, the perfect place for a hot date. Sarah and I almost wet ourselves with excitement that we were actually in there!
Before we ordered we were served a big plate of flat bread with a little jug of a salsa like red sauce. Very oniony and delicious. We ordered most of the vegetarian options, forgoing potato dumplings to leave room for cherry. I ordered a mineral water - they brought us a Coles brand 1.25l bottle. Food came really fast - a bowl of delicous red bean, walnut and garlic spread. Then a plate of mixed pickles - "hot" he warned us. "It's okay, we like hot." "Eat it", he urged. I nibbled an end and nodded my approval. He seemed satisfied that we were tough enough, and wandered off. Next came two pancakes - much like blintzes, they were rolled around a ricotta and sultana filling and crisply fried. Served with sour cream on top they were awesome. Then there was a big fat cabbage roll, full of rice and yummy things.
I worried we were getting full. But the unobtrusive (absent) service gave us plenty of time to digest. And finally we had enough room to order cherry dumplings. In Poland these would be described as pierogi, or in Russia, as pelmeni - basically they were little half moons of a pasta-like dough wrapped around a great cherry filling. There was bite, there was real cherry lumps, and flavour. Served with sour cream they were about as heavenly an end to this holy quest as we could have hoped for.
So viva the Armenians. I didn't know much about them - somewhere between the Middle East and Eastern Europe? Turns out it's kinda in the middle of Turkey, Iran, Georgia and Azerbijan. Prone to invasion like my poor Poland, but I guess there are culinary benefits to having all those armies passing through. You can tell at Cafe Armenia, that it must be a land where they've taken the best from all around them. Meat eaters would be very happy too - lots of crazy stews and swords of bbq meat. But we were rapt too. I think maybe divey is my favourite restaurant aesthetic and it only made me happier when Sarah went out the back to the toilet and reported that the kitchen was like a family one, complete with piles of boiled potatoes everywhere and an old lady with bright red lipstick and a ciggy hanging out of her mouth.
Labels: eating out
Monday, June 20, 2005
come fry with me...
Feeling oily? John Travolta is, and so am I.
"A deep fried party? Who's stupid idea was that?" That's what I was asked on Sunday. Well, I think it was mine. And it rocked.
Yes kids, on Saturday Bindy and I went through with our crazy plan to have a deep fry party. And although it was really nuts, I feel a strange sense of smug self-satisfaction. I fear it says something bad about my life that turning myself and a dozen friends into ill greaseballs is what gives me a sense of achievement.
We made heaps of yummy stuff. We fried. We ate. We drank beer. We clutched our bellies. We groaned. Then we went off and partied like maniacs, with lots of grease to soak up all the liquor. And I woke up feeling awesome on Sunday morning. So who said oil is so bad for you?
Here's the menu:
- Arancini - lemon risotto rolled around mozarella and then crumbed
- Crumbed eggplant sticks and mushrooms
- Beer battered cauliflower and broccoli
- Battered olives
- Crumbed camembert
- Parsnip and sweet potato chips
- Battered mini-Mars and Bounty bars
- Battered Tim Tams
- Pineapple and banana fritters
There wasn't as much crazy random deep frying as I thought - you know, people pulling things out of the fridge and battering them. But it was really fun gathering round Bindy's cute 70s deep fryer (strangely called "Cook n' Clean" even though it did no cleaning). Another culinary dream achieved... next stop, bomb alaska?
I just feel bad that Bindy's house smells like a chip shop.
Labels: ridiculous missions
Tuesday, June 14, 2005
come fly with me....
Well, it has been a mega crazy weekend. So much fun I feel quite manic... Among many exciting happenings was my first decorated cake experience.
It was Marion's 30th birthday party on Sunday so I offered to make a cake. I was shocked when she said that Andy, her "I can't cook" boyf, claimed to have it "under control."
The next day I had about 5 phone calls from Andy looking for help and advice. He wanted to do a cake that showed Marion in either a sports car or a plane and he was thinking of just buying cakes and icing from Safeway. "Safeway? Nooooo!" I screamed, knowing that Marion would be very unhappy to cut open her cake and find it bland and foamy. So I stupidly offered to make the cakes and help him put it together.
5 cake batters, 4 bowls of icing and hours of gruelling labour later we had a cake that looked a bit like a 5 year old had designed it.
But Marion and the crowd were suitably impressed and at least it tasted delicious. For the fusillage I used 3 lemon cakes and the icing was flavoured with fresh lime juice. The wings are a simple chocolate cake with a thick icing made from real chocolate. Luckily both the cakes were pretty solid and easily carved by Andy, who did do a good job of wielding the knife. And the punters were more than happy to gobble it all up, leaving things looking a little sad.
Making the cake made me realise how the woman in The Hoursfeels when she gets all the crumbs in her icing. I'm sooo not a perfectionist but I was incredibly frustrated by how the icing dripped everywhere, fell off and generally looked a bit wrong. Luckily we served the cake in a dimly lit bar. Still, this decorating business sure is hard work and it gave me a heap more respect for my old housie Nat, aka The Cake Lady (scroll down for a pic), who used to spend weeks putting together her detailed little cake sculptures.
If anyone wants to cake recipes let me know and I'll post them. I mainly chose them because they are really easy to make and quite firm, but they're definitely good stand-by cakes to have in your repertoire.
Labels: cakes, ridiculous missions
Wednesday, June 01, 2005
Prune and Whisky Cake
I'm not sure if I can convey how wonderful this cake is. It's amazingly moist, with a great springy texture and the glaze makes it glamourous and just sticky enough. Plus, springing out of my excellent new bundt/kugelhupf tin it looks amazing.
As I mentioned in my last post, I did have a few problems with people who have weird issues about prunes. I blame those bad American college movies where they make prune/laxative jokes. But I really doubt prunes have any more dietary effects than dried apricots - they just got a weird reputation. Anyway, maybe you should tell people it's a plum and whisky cake. Half the people at the party I took this to didn't even know that prunes are dried plums. Although maybe it's better to tell everyone what's in it and then there's more cake for those who don't have such stupid prejudices.
With that disclaimer done, may I heartily encourage you to make this cake - it is just so damn good and mine turned out perfectly risen and formed with very little effort.
Prune and Whisky Cake
(adapted from the excellent Moosewood Restaurant Book of Desserts)
For the cake you'll need:
- 2 cups pitted prunes
- 0.25 cup scotch whisky
- 2 cups water
- 0.75 cup vegie oil
- 1.5 cups packed brown sugar
- 4 large eggs
- 2 tsp vanilla
- 2.75 cups unbleached white flour
- 2 tsp baking soda
- 1 tsp salt
- 0.5 tsp ground allspice
- 1 tsp ground nutmeg
- 1 tsp ground cloves
- 1 tsp ground cloves
- 0.5 tsp ground cardamon
- 2 tsp ground cinnamon
- 1 cup buttermilk (I used sour cream thinned with milk because that's what I had)
- 1 cup sugar
- 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
- 0.25 cup more scotch
- 0.25 cup liquid from the prune cooking
Preheat the oven to 350F. Butter and flour a 10 inch bundt pan. Set aside.
In a large bowl, cream together the oil and brown sugar with an electric mixer. Add the eggs and vanilla and beat well. In a separate bowl, combine the flour and other dry ingredients. Add the flour mixture the batter, beating until well blended. Pour in the buttermilk and beat until just smooth. Fold in the chopped prunes.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for at least an hour (mine took 15 minutes more). If you stick a knife in it should come out clean. Now cool the cake in a pan for 10 minutes. Then invert onto a serving platter and cool for 15 minutes more - still in the tin. Then remove the pan.
To make the glaze - combine all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Cook on medium-high heat for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat. Pierce the top of the cake with a skewer or toothpick in 10 places. Slowly pour the glaze over the cake, allowing it to soak in.
Serve to ooohs and aaahs. (with or without mentioning what's in it.)
Labels: cakes
Monday, May 30, 2005
is baking becoming a problem?
Nell asked me this yesterday when I told her I was going home to bake for the third time in the week. "Hmmm. Every 48 hours." she said "Could be a cause for concern."
Do I bake when I feel upset or angry?
Possibly. But it works.
Does my baking cause injuries?
Well, just a couple of burns. And a belly.
Am I binge baking?
No I never bake more than 6 cakes a night, unless you count cupcakes.
Are friends or co-workers worried about my baking?
Hell no, I don't hear any complaints from those doing the eatin.
On Wednesday, for Eve's birthday I made these cupcakes.
What is with that American thing where white cakes are Angel food and Chocolate ones are Devil's food. White-supremacy with your baking? Yes please. But the cupcakes were great. Very childhood tasting. And they travelled well so I could take them to dinner.
Friday, I made an amazing Prune and Whiskey cake in my brand-new kugelhupf tin.
(Or bundt tin if you prefer.) This was an adaptation from the prune and armagnac recipe in my desserts book. I'll post the recipe soon as I can because it was a winner - it looked awesome and was moist, sticky and irresistible. (Despite all the rude comments people made about prunes... c'mon, they're just dried plums!)
And yesterday I baked this cake - a Spicy Chocolate Gingerbread.
I think all the other perfectly risen, well formed, easy to turn out goodies had made me over confident. This brought me back down to earth - it sunk in the middle like a swimming pool. I blame the weirdo silicone bakeware my Mum gave me. But it tasted bloody delicious, had a real chilli kick and was gobbled up appreciatively by housemates and my guest.
This week I think I'll have to make some savoury foods.
Labels: cakes
Saturday, May 21, 2005
drooling and mashing
Well I've been spending far too much time cruising the innahnet looking at other people's blogs. It's enough to make you drool. Of course I don't have any sensible way of keeping track of them all - I just jump around and then forget where the good ones are. But here's a little roundup. I won't be adding all these to my links - no offense it's just there's so many better collections of food links out there. And discovering is half the fun.
With its reviews of cheapo dumpling joints and chinese bakery good Grab Your Fork is right up my dark alley. If only it was Melbourne based instead of Sydney.
You'll notice I've been referencing Niki lately. Since the treacle stout cake I feel I owe her bigtime because that is one recipe that will stick with me.
Neiko's blog Nordljus is insanely pornographic - you have to see these food photos to believe 'em. Some of the recipes are a bit too fancy for me to ever try but I'm going to make the brown bread icecream tomorrow I think.
What I Cooked Last Night is a fellow Melbournian. And gave props to Scheherezade, my favourite old school restaurant. So they get a return visit.
And lastly, I love the writing at Pie Queen. The post on Red Velvet cake, Dorothy Allison and trash cakes was great. I wanna get to know this queen.
And now for a great picture:
It's no wonder my housemates were worried there's an alien in the house. But don't freak out - it's just celeriac. I think I'm gonna get off this computer now and go cook this little baby up. Probably the same way I made it last weekend - boiled with potatoes and a some whole garlics. Mashed with soy milk, butter, mustard and lots of salt. You know this cold weather sure is making me cook. If you're good soon I'll post my killer chickpea dish which I made again last night.
Monday, May 16, 2005
chocolate chilli time
You want more chocolate goodness? Well so do I, and I like my chocolate hot!
Yesterday Bindy and I finally made the brunch I've been planning ever since my sister gave me a churerra for christmas. We had churros and thick dark cinnamon hot chocolate. Churros are one of my favourite types of donuts. I think the translation that the churrera gave of "extruded fritte-finger" doesn't quite do justice to these long crisp fried delights. Ours weren't perfect, being a little too crunchy and not quite moist enough in the middle but they were pretty damn fine. Washed down with some excellent thick spicy hot chocolate they were a feasty brunch.
Anyway, for those of you who aren't lucky enough to have a churrera, or who don't want to be deep frying, I thought I'd include another excellent way to eat chocolate with a latin touch.
I first got excited about chocolate with chilli when I tried Charmaine's choc-chilli ice cream way back in high school. It was a hot fave for over a decade and I remain devoted to this taste combination, even as it has gone mainstream. (witness the chocolate chilli Tim Tams if you will.)
These cookies are a bit of a pain to make, mainly because they need flipping over, but they're not difficult and they are extremely popular. On a long car trip to Lismore one summer Camilla managed to polish off a few dozen in the front seat before the rest of us had even had seconds. Luckily it makes close to 12 dozen cookies.
This recipe is adapted from Mexico: The Vegetarian Table, a book well worth finding.
Chocolate Chilli Cookies
- 270g dark chocolate
- 1/4 cup water
- 4 cups flour
- 1/2 cup cocoa
- 2 tsp pure chilli powder
- 1 tsp ground cinnamon
- 1/2 tsp cayenne
- 1/4 tsp salt
- 12 tbsps butter (1 1/2 sticks)
- 1 1/2 cups sugar
- 1 tbsp vanilla extract
- 2 eggs
- 1/2 cup pure icing sugar
In any case, when you think they're done remove 'em from the oven and let them cool on the tray for 5 minutes before moving to a plate. Sift the icing sugar over them. (I normally skip that bit). These keep fairly well in a airtight cookie jar if you want to take them to school for play lunch or something.
Labels: biscuits
Wednesday, May 11, 2005
the recipe everyone wants
Prompted by Niki's excellent stout cake, I thought I'd post my recipe for a guinness cake. This came to me from my sister, who got it off her friend Maria, who got it off a woman named Karen. Which just goes to show how good a cake it is - the kind where everyone wants the recipe. Like Niki's cake it's a piece of piss to make and very very moist. Excellent for chocolate cravings and also a good cake to take to dinners or whatever - people always seem quite impressed by it.
My chocolate cake rule is it ain’t a chocolate cake if it doesn’t have chocolate in it. I won’t stand for none of those brown cakes that just have a few tablespoons of cocoa in them. This is the cake exception that proves the rule. I think it's because the guinness makes it so moist, and then you pour heaps of chocolate over the top!
You be needing:
- 175g plain flour
- a pinch of baking powder
- 1 tsp bicarb (baking soda)
- 110g butter
- 250g dark brown sugar
- 2 eggs, beaten up
- 200ml Guinness (or another stout)
- 55g cocoa
- 200gm dark chocolate
- 1/2 cup cream
- 1 extra tbsp butter
Labels: cakes
Monday, May 09, 2005
baking again
Well I know I've been a little slack of lately - I've barely been cooking - both because of running around like crazy and because lately Texta's mum has been visiting and cooking all day every day. Now, I'm not about to complain about a constant variety of curries, chutneys and delicious spicy fried potatoes but I do feel a little ungrounded when I don't cook.
So Saturday morning I forced my way into the kitchen, grabbed a spare stove burner and a corner of the table and whipped up this cake from a fellow Australian blogger. It's a treacle, stout, pear and spice cake... oh yes! It's a dark, moist gingery cake and the pears are delicious. I've been looking for a good pear cake recipe for a while so I am very very happy. And as some of you would know from my chocolate guinness cake days, I love a good stout cake. Of course, the fact that it is incredibly easy to make was pretty nice too. I suspect it's one of those cakes that is virtually foolproof: it doesn't have any egg white whipping or tricky bits. So expect me to be bringing this to all sorts of events this autumn.
And maybe I'll post the chocolate guinness cake recipe soon as a comparison.
Labels: cakes
Wednesday, April 20, 2005
full as a goog?
I was amused to see a debate at this noticeboard about what "full as a goog" meant and what the hell a goog is anyway. Most people seem to agree with my understanding - that a goog comes from a googy egg (?) and to be "full as a goog" is to be stuffed full of food. It was nice to find out that it can also mean that you are very drunk - full up of grog I guess.
If you want to get full as a goog but can't afford cicciolina you could do worse than a big bowl of noodle soup. This genre is one of my favourites but as usual I'm a bit of a snob - there's nothing worse than a big bowl of creamy orange flavoured soup with a few fat noodles masquerading as a laksa. So two of my favourite Melbourne noodle soup haunts, one old and one new:
the penang coffee house is where I had my first laksa and it served me well for the first 16 years of my life until I fled the Eastern suburbs. The laksa here wins on taste alone, it's a complex spicy broth, more brown than orange. There's also more thin rice noodles than yellow noodles which suits me, a good range of vegies and lots of squishy fried tofu puffs. At $9 or so it's no longer the cheapest option but it is the best. I remember a time when we used to get it take away, and then if there were leftovers I ate them for breakfast... mmmm. I also love that it has pineapple in it, though I know that might gross some people (hi Sarah) out.
Penang Coffee House is at 395 Burwood Road, Hawthorn near the corner of Glenferrie Rd, which is just near Swinburne.
kimchi tray is a new addition to my list. This little korean joint seems to be an offspring of kimchi grandma and offers a smaller range of dishes that come on a tray (ah ha) in more of a quick meal environment. Sadly, you only get 2 side dishes. I dropped in with Mum for an excellent kimchi noodle soup. It was just on the comfortable side of my chilli threshold, full of excellent firm rice noodles, lots of kimchi and some shredded vegies.
Unfortunately one of my side dishes was kimchi, which was a bit redundant while the other one was a couple of slices of orange - made for a good little palate cleanser anyway. The soup was so damn good though that I didn't mind. At about $8 it's going to be my new favourite quick city dinner and it's one that is guaranteed to make you full as a goog.
Kimchi tray is on Flinders st, between Elizabeth and Queen.
Tuesday, April 19, 2005
and a bit more eating
Last night marked 2 years of me and Sarah (a fact I feel slightly embarassed to mention here). It seemed only right that we celebrate by doing what we have done so well - being hot and eating a lot. So we started in the spa and steam room at the St Kilda Sea Baths and moved on to Cicciolina for a damn fine dinner.
Cicciolina doesn't take bookings (too cool?) but they do have a great back bar to wait in, complete with big mafia style booths and snazzy barmen.
It's probably good they didn't have a table for us, or we would have missed out on the arancini, from the bar menu. These little golden crumbed rice balls were the best I've had. Crunchy on the outside, soft and flavourful in the middle and served with a great aioli. The cocktails weren't too rotten either - I had a great one involving raspberry puree, chambord and tequila while Sarah had a "seedy pash" (typical!) full of passionfruit, cranberry, vodka and grand marnier.
So yes, we were a little drunk and quite a bit hungry by the time we got our table. The dinner food was just as great. We had:
* blue cheese and leek tart: very strong cheesy taste, lovely pastry
* fried kefi cheese: made totally excellent by a fennel crumb
* shitake, spinach and truffle oil risotto - oh yes, mushroomy goodness
* salad w goats cheese, croutons, pine nuts - okay, so maybe we didn't need to eat this much cheese. but damn i think this was the first time i've loved croutons in a salad.
* apple tart tatin - absolutely worth killing for. apple in big chunks that were sooo melty.
*fig and grappa ice cream - mmmm. what is grappa anyway? oh.
So yes, we were two very full puppies. But very very happy. I love how Cicciolina is posh in terms of food (and sadly, prices) and the service is very good but it feels casual and not snooty. The decor is just up my alley too; lots of nice wood, good chairs and quite cluttered so it feels more european than your average minimalist yuck fancy place. So if you have a bit of spare cash or a special occasion go - just go early or be prepared to wait. Next time we might try just going to the bar for drinks and arancini - and then seeing if we can make them give us some of that tart!
Labels: eating out
Friday, April 15, 2005
garlic anyone
Well, i'm not feeling very good at the moment. whether it's because of brain damage caused by my big bike stack or something else i dunno. But it made me think of this good tonic.
Garlic Soup
Not much beats this Mexican garlic soup. I forgot how good it is until Shane came and stayed and I made him make it. He made it over and over and it always went down a treat. It's warming, golden and delicous.
Particularly good if you’ve been being a trash bag, then on Monday you start to feel crappy and suddenly want to act like you’re taking care of yourself by eating good warming garlicky food. Although I know I said it about pickle soup, this is also definitely vegetarian jewish penicillin (chicken soup).
The key is to buy good garlic if you can (not that imported Chinese crap) and be really careful not to fry it for too long. It's basically foolproof but if you burn or overcook the garlic you better start again or it'll taste bitter and crap.
You will need
olive oil
1 whole head of garlic
1/2 baguette
2 ancho chilies*, crushed dried chilli or good chilli powder
4 medium tomatoes (tinned ok if you have to)
7 cups vegie stock
salt
sour cream
Separate the garlic cloves, peel and chop them coarsely (while muttering coarse language.) Chop the tomatoes into smallish chunks. Slice the baguette into 1cm slices. If using the ancho chilies stem and seed them and chop them coarsely too.
Heat 1/4 cup of oil in a large heavy frypan until smoking. Add the garlic and stir over medium heat for one minute – or until lightly toasted. Don’t let it go more than pale golden. Transfer the garlic to a large soup pot.
Add as many slices of bread to the frypan as will fit in one layer and fry for a minute or so until it goes nice and golden and a bit crunchy. Turn it over and do the other side. Drain on some old paper and set aside. Do all the bread this way. You will probably need to add a bit of extra oil.
Now place the tomatoes and chilli in the frypan and stir until the tomatoes are a bit wilted (1-2 minutes). If you’re using the chilli powder use 1 – 2 teaspoons, the soup should be warm but not hot, chilli wise. Transfer to the soup pot and add the stock and salt. Bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes or until the garlic is soft.
Ladle the piping hot soup into bowls and garnish each serve with fried bread and a dollop of sour cream. Serve to your adoring housemates, friends and lovers.
* These are a dried chilli available from Mexican and Central American suppliers. In Melbourne try Casa Latina on Johnson St.
Labels: soup
Tuesday, April 12, 2005
ogorki a-hoy
The picture above is an old German satirical picture from the wonderful Food Mania. I tried to figure it out but I couldn't. Something about the economy going to shit and immigration? Anyway, some gratuitous stories about pickles to accompany it...
1) On Saturday night people were amused at John's Russian party that I had brought a jar of pickles with me. But the pickle chaser is my favourite - nothing better gets the taste of a shot of cheap vodka out of your mouth and nothing complements good vodka better.
2) When my sister Marion was seeing The Pianist in Poland there was a man sitting behind who didn't have very good eyesight - a woman accompanying him was explaining things to him. The mood was sombre and grim, as you'd expect in a holocaust film, until a scene which featured a big jar of pickles. "What are they?" the man said "Ogorki" the woman whispered. "What?"
"OGORKI!". I still think of this and chuckle whenever I see a jar of Polski Ogorki - the only style pickle to eat.
3) When I was about 12 we took my friend Chris Evans on a family camping trip. He had never eaten pickles before and had to be goaded into trying them. He thought they were really weird. I thought he was a freak for not loving them. Luckily my friends now have better taste. On a recent camping trip with 4 mates we had to buy 2 jars of Bick's Polski Ogorki everytime we hit a town.
Labels: jewfood
Monday, April 04, 2005
baking time
Lamingtons!
A while back I noticed that someone had ended up at this site searching for "lamington recipe" - which sadly, I couldn't provide at that time. But now I can.
I think lamingtons are pretty Australian, so for those of you who don't know why I'm getting so excited that I have to use exclamation marks I better explain. Lamos are basically little cubes of a light sponge cake (or genoise for the fancy bakers) that are dipped in a chocolate mixture and rolled in shredded coconut. They are a staple of the old school bakery. Sometimes they have a layer of jam in the middle which is controversial. Sometimes cream too which is just yuck. My beloved Sarah is pretty lamington obsessed so we always end up with one in the car on any country bakery mission. When they're good they really are much better than the sum of their parts.
Sarah used this recipe and made some for our afternoon tea that were pretty damn sublime - a million times better than any bakery lamington. It's adapted from an old magazine recipe I found at my house which was for orange lamingtons and involved jelly crystals - yuk. But after Sarah's first recipe resulted in a sunken 1 inch high cake we tried this sponge recipe and it hit the spot - firm enough to cut but deliciously light. I made the chocolate part up.
Sponge:
8 free range eggs, separated
2 extra egg yolks
190g caster sugar
80g plain flour
40g cornflour
40g melted butter (cooled)
Icing:
cocoa
boiling water
icing sugar
1 tbsp butter
1.5 cups of shredded coconut
Preheat the oven to 180C (350F). Beat the 10 yolks with 90g of the sugar until very pale (5 - 10 minutes). Transfer to a large bowl. Sift the flour and cornflour three times, then fold into the yolk mixture.
Beat the egg whites with the remaining sugar until stiff and glossy. Fold three quarters of the whites into the yolk mixture. Mix the melted butter with the remaining whites until well combined, then folk into the yolk mixture.
You will need a big wide rectangle baking tin (about 30 cm x 25 cm and at least 3 cm deep). Lime it with greaseproof paper and pour the mixture in. Bake for 12 - 15 minutes, or until golden and spongy to touch. Turn out onto a wire rack and cover with a tea towel to cool.
To make the icing melt the butter in the boiling water. Pour it over the icing sugar and cocoa and stir until dissolved. It should be a very dark brown - if not add more cocoa.
Cut the sponge into 8cm cubes. Dip them in the chocolate liquid - letting it soak in just a bit - and roll in coconut. This bit can be a bit messy - try forks or skewers for holding the cake. Let them set a bit before serving.
Labels: cakes
Saturday, April 02, 2005
eggplant goodness
Me and Nell are working on our cookbook again. Which means more cooking and damnit, more eating.
We couldn't decide if Eggplant Parmigiana was worth including or not - it was something we made a hell of a lot when we were teenagers, but not something I make much anymore. Also I figure it's something most people know how to make. So last night I made a trial batch and the verdict was definitive - delicious and well worth including.
Sarah was a bit surprised that I made it in a kind of layered lasagne style, but this is how I was served it at (the authentically Italian) Sonia's place and I think it's infinitely superior to the dry style which is like a pseudo chicken parmigiana [how did this poor dish become some gross skip pub food?].
This is perfect for when you are craving something baked and tomatoey - the flavours all meld together and the polenta crust gives it a great texture. Mine probably tasted extra good because I made the sauce from homegrown tomatoes - but if you don't have any you could use cheap market roma's or just tinned. Make sure that your sauce has been properly cooked up though, with lots of onion, garlic and simmering time.
I haven't included quantities because this is an easy recipe to expand.. just allow about 1 eggplant for every 2 people. It takes a little bit of time, but it's not hard at all.
You will need:
- A batch of homemade tomato pasta sauce - about 2 cups per eggplant
- Eggplants (I used 3 medium sized ones)
- Mozzarella (a good white one from an italian supermarket)
- Polenta or fine cornmeal (a few cups)
- An egg or two
- Olive oil for frying
- A little knob of parmesan
- Slice the eggplant lengthwise, about 1.5 cm thick
- Sprinkle the slices generously with salt and leave them to sweat for about 15 minutes- this will make the eggplant more tender.
- Cut the mozzarella lengthwise into thin slices.
- Find a casserole/lasagna dish - choose a dish that will give you 2 - 3 layers of eggplant.
- Preheat the oven to 200C (400F)
- Rinse the eggplant slices and pat them dry with a clean teatowel.
- Beat the eggs in a wide bowl.
- Put a cup of polenta on a plate.
- Put a heavy frypan on the stove and heat a thin layer of oil. (If you can, it's probably good to have two pans going at once)
- Now dunk the eggplant in egg, and then in the polenta - getting a good crust all round.
- Fry the slices in batches until golden brown - this bit is annoying but you don't need to do a perfect job - it's okay if they're a bit patchy or not fully cooked as they still get baked.
- If the oil gets too smokey you may need to get rid of the burnt bits of polenta and start again.
- Put a thin smear of tomato sauce at the bottom of the casserole dish and then a layer of fried eggplant. Top the slices with mozzarella and more sauce. Then add another layer of eggplant and repeat. Finish with a decent layer of sauce and top with grated parmesan.
- Bake for 30 or more minutes or until the sauce is bubbling around the edges and the top has gone brown and a bit crisp. If you need to turn the heat up to brown it that's fine.
- Serve with a green salad and some bread for mopping up all that yummy sauce.
Labels: mains
Monday, March 21, 2005
yum cha cha
Well folks, your intrepid correspondent has done the hard work for you. Yes, on Sunday I trekked out to Box Hill to investigate reports of Vegetarian Yum Cha. Luckily Sammy, Nell, Sarah and John came along to assist with the eating.
The venue - a place known only as Asian Vegetarian Restaurant (606 Station St). The menu is a short but delicious list of dumplings, buns, dim sum and other delicacies. You have to tick which ones you would like and they're delivered to your table.
The groups' favourites were the crystal spinach dumplings (great spinach flavour) and the fake BBQ Pork Buns (an intensely confusing mix of salty and sweet). I also loved the Radish Cake, Taro dumplings (fried lacy taro wrapped around a mix of vegies) and a strange spongy cake known as Steamed Egg Cake.
Oh how we feasted. It's not quite as fine an affair as the Purple Lotus (15 Goulburn St, Haymarket, Sydney), I missed the rice noodle rolls and the crispy tofu rolls. But definitely worth the trip to Box Hill - which is afterall, closer than Sydney.
ps - I have a new web stats tracker and it says that a lot of you folks are visiting this here humble blog. so please, leave a comment and make me as happy as if i was stuffing my face with Sammy's chestnut cake.
Labels: eating out
parcels of joy
On Wednesday I was lucky enough to be taken for dinner at Madam Fang. Yum. I would definitely recommend this if you have someone else who's paying (mains $20 - $25). From the folks behind Isthmus of Kra and Shakahari, this was a restaurant in the old style (they had carpet! not noisy concrete) but with good modern food.
We had a great taster entree - gyoza, croquettes, tempura (eggplant wrapped around avocado) and some yummy little parcels that got me thinking. I'm fairly sure the wrapping was bean curd skin. The filling was very finely shredded but I think it had beans, ginger and jicama. We had a conversation with the waitress about jicama - not something you see much of in Australia. I've had it in the US in Mexican, and I like it's crunch. She said she grew up on the stuff in S-E Asia. Anyway, the parcels were great - crunchy on the outside where the skin was grilled and nicely packed full.
Mains were also good - the standout being a dish of many different types of mushroom in a soy based sauce that was served over something strangely described as "polenta rice". I think it was mashed up rice... it had the texture of polenta I guess.
Anyway, feeling all inspired I decided to try my hand at the parcels. I headed to Victoria St and had a great time shopping at a big Vietnamese grocery. (Don't think I left without buying 3 types of fake meat!) And at Sammy's on Friday night we gave it our best shot. I soaked the bean curd skins and some dried chinese mushrooms. We used zucchini, spring onions, coriander and the mushrooms for our filling. Although the skin tore a little we managed to wrap them up and pan fried them while basting with a mixture of soy, chilli and rice wine. They went all nice and crunchy and were pretty damn good, even if they didn't quite hit Madam Fang's mark. Next time I think I will use bean sprouts or something with more bulk for the filling so the parcels are easier to roll up. And something with a bit more crunch too - the zucchini didn't quite hit the mark.
In other big shopping news - I found Kimchi dumplings in the frozen section of my local supermarket (the IGA under College Square for locals). Yee haa.. two of my favourite things combined in one small parcel. $5 for 50!
Thursday, March 10, 2005
Cake!
Well I decided the best way to solve the image problem is not to buy a digital camera, but to use my housemates scanner a bit more - thanks Tom. So from now on strange old pictures will be the order of the day - mostly thanks to food mania.
And so, a neurotic baking story.
On Saturday I invited Bindy around for a late afternoon tea. Feeling like a bit of baking, I dragged out a couple of recipe books and decided on a chocolate sherry cake. Only problem was - I realised my favourite one requires chestnut paste and I've had trouble finding that in my hood before.
So I thought, maybe an upside down apple tart (tart tatin?). But I wasn't in my usual organised frame of mind, so it wasn't until I had measured out the flour, butter and sugar into a bowl that I realised I didn't have the pyrex pie tin the recipe called for. And caramelising sugar on the stove in my pie tin didn't appeal. By this stage I was feeling a bit frantic - none of my ideas were working and it was pissing down outside so I didn't feel like going out for ingredients. I rifled through recipe files and started to think maybe I should just go for pikelets.
Finally I found a recipe that used the stuff I'd already measured out - a streusel kuchenor crumble cake with a banana topping. Again I leapt into it and started measuring stuff out. Then of course Bindy arrived - an hour early - and just as I'd realised I didn't have the yoghurt the recipe called for. She helpfully offered to go out and get it and so the day was saved. I swapped bananas, which didn't sound that traditional, for apples, replaced the brown sugar I couldn't find for white and all was saved. Bloody yum actually. But why did I feel like the stupid kid who didn't learn to read your recipe through before starting?
Streusel Kuchen - Light cake with apple and crunchy topping.
This is a really easy cake to make. The yoghurt makes it very light and I love the crunchy topping. You can use any fruit you have handy.
- 2 cups flour
- 1 tbsp baking powder
- 6 tbsps butter
- 1/3 cup sugar
- 1 large egg
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 2/3 cup plain yoghurt or sour cream
- 1/2 cup soy milk
- 3 - 4 apples
- 1/2 cup plain flour
- 2 tsp ground cinnamon
- 1/4 cup soft butter, in pieces
- 1/2 cup brown sugar
- Preheat the oven to 375F and oil a 9 or 10 inch springform pan.
- Put all the cake ingredients in a bowl and mix by hand or machine until you have a thick and smooth batter.
- Spoon the batter into the pan and smooth level.
- Grate the apples and spread on top of the cake batter.
- Rub the flour, cinnamon, butter and sugar together until they form a crumble. Sprinkle this over the apple.
- Bake for 40 - 45 minutes or until the top goes nice and brown.
- Serve warm, possibly with yoghurt or ice cream
Labels: cakes
Wednesday, March 09, 2005
i'm back
okay, that's the only image of Korean rice cake I could find quickly. It's a book called 2005 Ewha Photo Diary: Tteok - Korean Rice Cake. How beautiful and crazy does it look?
Sorry folks. If anyone did miss me i kinda abandoned this blog because there are so many better food writers out there and i also think it's weird having a blog without pictures. That said, i'm back. I’ve decided to focus a bit more on hunting down fun places to eat and good foods but there should still be plenty of recipes.
This week’s big discovery is Box Hill. Okay, this eastern suburb of melbourne wasn't sitting around waiting to be discovered but it was a bit off my radar. Sarah decided we had to go on a date out there – a mystery date which had me on the Eastern freeway going “where are we going?” over and over like a kid.
Box Hill is like what I wish chinatown was - lots of cheap asian joints ranging from your traditional shanghai dumpling house to asian vegetarian places. And lots of Korean!
We decided to check out a place on Bank St, opposite the railway line. It was called Korean Deli and was oddly scattered with all sorts of schmonces. Weird stuff like little dolls made out corn husks and ceramic clowns. The menu has great photos of the food – macro close ups of omelettes and stuff. We settled on mung bean pancakes, rice cake in spicy sauce (dukboki) and the stone bowl rice.
The pancakes were little pikelet sized morsels and had good crunchy stuff inside. I had the feeling they weren't fried fresh though, which could have helped. The rice cake was just how I like it - big long tubes of rice dumpling, good and chewy and with a sauce that was, as our waiter said “just a little bit hot”. As usual “with vegetables” meant a bit of sliced onion and carrot, but somehow that didn’t matter. The stone bowl was also great – a big hot bowl of rice (so hot the rice is still crackling when it comes out) covered with little mounds of delicately grated vegies, seaweed and pickles. Topped with a fried egg of course. Our waiter was not impressed with my skills at stirring it so he asked if he could do it. Adding lots of sauce he then proceeded to chop up the egg with a spoon and thoroughly mix everything together. "You're heaps better at that" I said. "Yes, I'm Korean" he replied.
A great meal all in all – the only funny thing being that we didn’t automatically get served all my beloved side dishes. I don't think they were used to having honkeys in, and they seemed to think we wouldn't cope with all their weird food. It was only when I asked for some kimchi that they were brought out. The peppery fungus was particularly awesome as were the little potatoes. I don’t know how they make them so soft but still together but I love ‘em.
The whole meal, with roast corn tea came to $25.30. For dessert we went around the corner to the stupidly named crepelato. Of course I had to go for the crepes with peanut butter and condensed milk. Sarah insisted on chocolate gelato on top. Of course they were fantastic – choc-peanut butter is always such a winner of a combination.
And the best thing about the trip? We found a place that does vegetarian yum cha. So you know where I’m heading on my next free morning…
Labels: eating out
Wednesday, December 15, 2004
what am i, chopped liver?
Well, preparations for the Polish/Russian birthday feast are well underway. I made this vegetarian chopped liver and it's pretty tasty. For anyone who doesn't know - chopped liver is a traditional Sabbath dish for Eastern European jews. It's thought that Pate might have originated in this dish, also made by Jews in France long ago. And of course it's become a classic NY deli sandwich - chopped liver on rye, with lettuce, tomato and sliced onion.
I first tried vegie chopped liver at B & H Dairy, an awesome little Kosher diner in the East Village. There's no meat at B & H, just amazing Challah french toast, greasy blintzes and a changing roster of wonderful soups - Borscht, Matzoh Dumpling.... And I love the flirtatious old guys there.
Anyway, the chopped liver recipe above is well worth a try even if you don't have a nostalgic longing for B & H. Think of it as a walnut and lentil pate if that makes it seem more appetising. Sarah was a little disappointed because she'd always thought chopped liver referred to little jelly-ish cubes of liver... somehow "what am I, cubed liver?" doesn't have quite the same ring to it.
We also spent Saturday night cooking - making and freezing a big batch of Pierogi. I love Pierogi, which are kind of Polish ravioli - little half-moon dumplings that can be served fried or boiled. We had three fillings: sauerkraut; potato and dill; and apricot and cottage cheese. We used this recipe and it wasn't nearly as tricky as I thought - it just takes a little while. We tripled the dough quantities, which is why we were still boiling them at midnight. Sarah was much better than me at rolling the dough out thinly so we have a variety of dumplings. I guess that's what home cooking is about though - they don't look like they came out of a packet.
Ooh yeah honey, we're gonna be a feasting.
Thursday, December 09, 2004
a polish russian feast
Oh, I gotta stop stealing these tacky internet images I know... but what's a girl to do?
So the birthday plan is this: I'm going to break out all the infused vodkas I've been making. The cherry one is going to be a winner I know. And there'll be a big long table spread with zakuski, the little appetisers that go so well with vodka. Being vegetarian I'll be skipping the most popular options - caviar and herring, but my love of pickles will overcome that. So far the spread looks like this:
* pickles (cucumber and maybe tomato)
* beetroot salad
* russian potato salad
* carrot salad
* blini - mini pancakes with dill and sour cream
* spicy georgian red beans
* walnut spread
* egg salad
* vegetarian chopped liver
* pickled mushrooms
* cucumber salad
* radishes and other crunchy vegies
* bulgarian fetta
There'll also be chlodnik courtesy of Marion, which is a wonderful cold yoghurty soup with cucumber and beetroot. I'm also considering a few more substantial dishes like cabbage rolls and pierogi, which I'm a bit nervous about - I'm terrible with pastry, but I gotta have dumplings yeah? I'll be doing a trial run this weekend. Wish me luck.
Labels: ridiculous missions
on latkes and donuts
I love my mum. Not just for everything she taught me about eating (and cooking), but for the cute clippings and links she sends me. Today, in the spirit of Channukah - we have the thrilling article Latke vs Hamentash: A Materialist-Feminist Analysis. [Latke are the grated potato pancakes eaten at Channukah, Hamentashen are small pastries eaten at the festival of Purim]
Check this choice quote:
The material conditions of latke production are stressed in the best-known analysis of the latke as a factor in the oppression of women, Emma Goldman's famous "blood of our foremothers" speech (with which I assume many of you are familiar). In it, she asked, "How much of the very blood of our foremothers' knuckles have we battened and fattened on every Chanukah, for surely their lifeblood is invariably an ingredient in our latkes? Could oceans of applesauce or mountains of sour cream ever fully mask the salty tasteof the tears of our "onion-grating sisters?"Of course, I was a little upset about the discussion of Purim (the festival of Esther) in which I'm described as a "male-identified scab." That's what you get for being a beautiful virgin bride - jeaulous feminists!
Anyway.. how can you not love Channukah - a festival devoted to oil! Last year, due to a disaster with ordering the ponchke (traditional Polish donuts), we hit upon a new tradition - Marion ran down to the Italian pasticceria on Smith St and they whipped up 20 fresh Italian donuts (I think they're called bombolini). So we got to wash down our latkes with ricotta donuts as well as the more traditional jam ones. Now if only I could find a place that made my Roman favourites - donuts filled with Nutella!
I'm still finalising the menu for my Russian/Polish vodka feast so all suggestions welcome.
Labels: jewfood
Wednesday, December 01, 2004
viva polenta
So I've been on a wheat and sugar free week. The lollie jar at work was getting to be too much my friend. The weekend was hard - it was so hot that all I could think was "gelati, gelati...". But a gorgeous bbq breakfast at Jessie's helped - haloumi wrapped in fresh vine leaves was my big contribution and we all agreed it will have to become a regular on the summer barbie circuit.
Now I'm starting to feel heaps more energetic and enjoying living without the constant sugar craving. Plus there's the whole self-control kick... oh dear.
Going wheat free, my biggest friend this week has been polenta. I had a great dish at Sonia's house on Monday night: Polenta with Haloumi, vegies and caramelised onion. And even better - on Tuesday she brought me lunch at work: polenta with eggplant parmigiana. I forgot how much I love eggplant parmigiana - I thought my Mum had cooked it so much I'd never eat it again, but I was wrong. But back to Polenta: this stuff is the bomb! Eating corn based food always makes me feel really good. And if you have a slab of set Polenta in the fridge you never go short of a meal. Sometimes I grill a piece up and have it with spreads for breakfast. Last night we had it grilled with a leek, mushroom and cream sauce. Or you could make Eggplant Parmigiana and have a real feast.
Polenta
All you really need for this is polenta (cornmeal), salt and pepper and water. It's even better with lots of cheese - parmesan or fetta - but that depends how much of a health kick you're on.
You could use instant polenta but I haven't tried it yet. All the recipe books say that you need to break your arm stirring the polenta constantly, but if you have a good heavy pot it doesn't seem to stick that much.
- Put 8 cups of water in your big heavy pot and heat it up.
- When it's hot, but not boiling, add 3 cups of polenta. Add it really slowly, stirring with a whisk to avoid any lumps. Add salt and pepper here as well. You can even cook it in stock like my housemate if you want.
- Cook the polenta on a medium heat for 30 - 40 minutes on a low heat. Stir it as often as you can. If it gets too solid you could add a bit more water.
- When the polenta stops tasting like raw maize it's ready.
Yum.
Wednesday, November 24, 2004
shiokadelicious!
Sometimes I'm not sure why I feel the need to add more words to the innahnet.. there's so many people who do it so well.
Today's find is shiokadelicious! This great site seems to hail from Singapore as is full of great foodie rants and recipes. I am tempted to run home from work now and make Snake Beans with Egg, followed by Kek Batik - a great looking Bruneian cake that seems to be a cross between a rumball and a brownie. As the author said - how can you not want a cake made from condensed milk, Milo and Marie biscuits!
(Shiok! [shee-oak] (adj) colloquial Straits Chinese/Malay; fantastic; marvelous; an exclamation of enjoyment)
Roses and rhubarb
From Crazy Water, Pickled Lemons comes this great dish. An updated version of rice-pudding with rhubarb that transforms it from English boarding school into Mediterranean delight. I made it to take to Eve's the other night and it was all polished off in a second. It is really easy and very delicious - the rice is creamy and custardy and the rose flavoured syrup works surprisingly well with the rhubarb flavour to lift it out of the everyday.
I bought gum mastic from the turkish grocer on Smith St - a few spoons of yellowish clear lumps cost me $3.50 but I do think the taste it adds is worthwhile if you can find it. It's one of those subtle tastes that you barely notice but it is distinctive - just reminds me of Greek desserts or Turkish delight. I think it's a resin from some kind of orchid. If you can't get it just leave it out.
Rizogalo with Rose scented Roasted Rhubarb
(Rizogalo is a Greek rice pudding)
- lots of rhubarb cut into 10 cm lengths (I used about 900g)
- 150 ml water
- 200 g sugar
- 1 tbsp rose water70g short grain rice
- 850ml full cream milk (I used soy milk and added a dollop of cream)
- 55g caster sugar
- 1/4 tsp mastic (ground in mortar and pestle)
- 1 egg yolk
- 60 ml double cream
- Pre-heat oven to 180 degrees C. (350 F)
- Put the rhubarb pieces in a baking dish. Cover with sugar (200g) and water (150ml). Seal with foil and bake for 30 - 40 minutes.
- Cover the rice with water and bring to the boil. Boil for 5 minutes and then drain.
- Heat the milk with the rice, sugar and mastic.
- Bring to a boil and then simmer gently until the milk is absorbed. It takes 15 - 30 minutes. Stir occassionally.
- Take the rice off the heat.
- Mix the cream with the egg yolk and then add to the rice. Turn out into a bowl to let it cool.
- When the rhubarb is roasted - soft but still in distinct pieces - drain it, keeping the juices.
- Boil the juice down into a syrup. Add rose water to taste and then pour the syrup over the rhubarb.
- Serve the rice and rhubarb in two big bowls garnished with rose petals.
Did you notice I learnt to post photos? Now I just need someone to buy me a digital camera so I can record my efforts.
Labels: sweet things
It seems early but the apricots are here! I've generally thought apricots aren't worth eating unless you have a tree but at a Sydney Rd fruit shop I found some with the most amazing flavour. I've been guzzling them all day, making infused vodka with them, and rushing back to buy more when I'm in the area. Now it feels like summer!
Tuesday, November 16, 2004
Give me your groats
Firstly, props to Bindy- she just finished her exams and came through on her promise to make me a chocolate souffle. It was great - it rose high, was chocolatey and melty. She used this recipe from Recipe Zaar. We thought maybe it wasn't chocolatey enough - but really it was great and enough to give us a big chocolate buzz. Not too hard either - despite all the scary vibes that surround souffle I've never seen one fail.
Lately I’m getting back to my roots – wanting to eat and learn about Polish (and Russian) food. Inspired by another great library book - A Year of Russian Feasts - I've been dreaming of a big feast for my birthday. I'm thinking a massive table spread with zakuski - Polish antipasto. Beetroot salad, pickles, Blini... And lots of vodka. On Sunday I made some infused vodkas to go with the feast - lime, cherry, ginger, honey and cinnamon and chilli flavours.
Feeling all Polish, I decided to made some Kasha for dinner. My Mum hates Kasha(buckwheat) but I think I want to eat more. It's a traditional Polish dish where the grains are cooked like rice and served in many different ways. This recipe is very straightforward and would be great with a big eggplant stew, or served as part of a bigger Eastern European style meal. It'll taste even better if you use wild mushrooms, or a stock based on dried mushrooms - but it's great as is.
Kasha with Musrooms and Leek
- 1 cup whole buckwheat groats (from a health food store)
- 1 - 2 leeks, finely sliced
- 2 - 3 big handfulls of mushrooms, sliced
- 2 cups water or stock
- 4 - 6 tbsps butter or oil
- half a cup chopped walnuts, lightly toasted
- 1 tsp salt
- sour cream
- Melt the butter in a big pot with a good lid.
- Fry the buckwheat gently for 2 minutes.
- Add the mushrooms and leek and fry until soft - maybe 5 minutes.
- Add the water and salt and bring to the boil.
- Add the lid and turn the heat down.
- Cook for 10 -15 minutes until the groats are cooked through - they shouldn't be chewy or mushy.
- Leave to sit (with lid) for 5 minutes.
- Serve with the walnuts on top and pass the sour cream.
Mmmm.. yum. Nutty goodness.
Wednesday, November 10, 2004
a proper tea party
why do anarchists drink herbal tea?
because proper tea is theft.
( say it outloud)
Well Sunday's afternoon tea was awesome - most of my favourite people gathered together and completely off their faces on sugar!
The passionfruit sponge was my best yet I think. And Sarah made some great lamington’s – I’ll post that recipe here soon. As well as the food we made (see the other post) we had:
- Lemon meringue pie by Jessie
- The most delicious rum balls ever by Gab
- Mini-apple pies by Texta
- Mushroom and Jarlsberg quiche by Ruth
- Asparagus and peas by Eve
- Curried egg sandwiches by Em5000
Yeah it was a damn huge feast. I could barely even fit a scone in. And there was only one dish brought that didn’t fit out theme – a mediterranean plate of toasted pita, eggplant, peppers and rocket – quite delicious really but not very “proper”.
Lucky there was only one aberration – my control freak side had been worrying a lot about how to get everything to fit. What do other people do about this? Cook it all yourself I guess. We had allocated dishes to most people but you can never tell who’s going to rock along.
It was all great though, and the effect of too much tea and too much sugar was wonderful to behold. Costumes were great too – lots of cutesy aprons and old-school dresses. Wish I had a digital camera so I could show you - but damn I love my friends. And my girl. At 3pm, as we madly buttered bread for cucumber sandwiches, dipped lamingtons and made little pea tartlets we looked at each other and thought "who else would be crazy enough to do this?"
broadly speaking
Well, it's spring and that means broad beans. The garden is full of these little lovelies and because I'm growing them I can pick them however I want.
Tiny ones are lovely just boiled for a second and dressed with butter and lemon.
The medium ones made great pasta the other day. I used the little ones that are gnocchi shaped and just threw the beans and some asparagus pieces in a couple of minutes before the pasta was done. Drain and stir through plenty of salt and pepper, oil and lots of fetta chunks. Oh yeah!
And for the big fat beans? Well broad bean dip is pretty hard to go past. Eve dropped some around the other day - lovely and garlicky. I'm pretty sure it's just beans, lemon juice, olive oil and masses of garlic.
The hardest thing is resisting picking the pods too early - they look so big but it's all padding and the beans are still tiny inside.
Labels: beans
Wednesday, November 03, 2004
a tea party
Sarah and I have long talked about having a 'proper afternoon tea' and finally - this Sunday - it's going to happen. We're aiming for a cross between old English and Australian colonial style and trying our hardest to not be too pedantic. This is not easy for us - we had fears of people turning up with Rice Paper Rolls or something. But it's shaping up quite well. So far the menu is:
- Scones (with jam and cream)
- Passionfruit sponge
- Lamingtons
- Lemon Meringue Pie
- Homemade Ice Cream
- Cucumber Sandwiches
- Egg Salad Sandwiches
- Mini Quiches
- Asparagus
- Mini Pea Tartlets
We've had some trouble coming up with savoury ideas but I think it's looking pretty good. Maybe we need something more chocolatey? I've been practicing the Passionfruit Sponge - once for Sarah's birthday and once for my housemates. Here's the recipe:
Passionfruit SpongeThis seems to be a traditional Australian cake. As I'm not a traditional Australian I'm new to making it. In my family cakes were more likely to be serious dense things with poppyseeds or cherries but I'm trying to assimilate - I swear I am. And I'm learning that a sponge cake doesn't have to be a disappointing tasteless stale thing - it can be fluffy sweet and soft.
This recipe comes from The Age and is by Loretta Sartori. The article ("Whip it Good"!) has heaps of good tips for making sponges and a few other recipes so it's definitely worth checking out. Here's the recipe I used:
- 5 eggs (large)
- ¾ cup castor sugar
- ½ cup custard powder
- ½ cup cornflour
- ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda
- 1 tsp baking powder
- Real cream for whipping - about 350ml
- Homemade apricot jam (I just used a fancy bought one)
- Icing sugar
- Butter
- Passionfruit pulp - from 3 passionfruits (or a tin if you really can't find any)
- Preheat oven to 175C
- Butter and flour your tins. Springform is best. Make sure the bottom is thoroughly buttered.
- Separate the whites and yolks, set yolks aside.
- Sift dry ingredients three times.
- Whisk the whites until soft peaks form, gradually adding the sugar.
- Add the yolks to the whisked whites, mixing until combined.
- Remove from the mixer and fold through the sieved dry ingredients very gently.
- Transfer to tins.
- Bake for 20-25 minutes for the small cakes or 35 minutes for the large.
- When cold, slice into three layers.
- Spread first layer with homemade apricot jam then whipped cream; position second layer on top and repeat. Add third layer.
- Ice top layer with passionfruit icing: sift icing sugar and mix in passionfruit pulp. Then add melted butter to make it a runny consistency. Spread quickly over the surface and allow to run down the sides. Chill cake before serving.
Yield: 2 x 20cm round tins or 1 x 28cm round tin
The hardest bits for me is folding the dry ingredients through - how do you get it all mixed in without flattening the eggs? I also had a bit of trouble removing the cakes from the tins - I think I need to butter them more. But once it's all sandwiched together it looks truly impressive. And it tastes great.
Labels: cakes
Taco's galore
One thing I love about the blog world is that there's always people more obsessive than me. It's reassuring and it's inspiring. Over at Becks & Posh (cockney for "nosh") there's a great photo spread of the The Halloween Mission Taco Crawl 2004 which reminds me of everything I love about being a touch crazy about food. People in great outfits running around eating lots of mexican - what's not to like?
Speaking of Mexican, I'm relieved to say that Melbourne finally has another place that actually makes real (soft) tacos and other proper Mexican food. Los Amates is at 34 Johnston St, Fitzroy - just opposite Casa Iberica, my favourite Latin foods store.
Shane, Sammy and I tried Los Amates a couple of weeks ago and were pretty impressed. There was a slight ordering mishap - when we discovered a bit of ham on our vegetarian platter - but the chef himself came to make it all okay. The food itself was great and reassuringly free of mounds of melted cheese. I'll need to go back again to really suss out the different options because the menu is pretty long and we were a bit too drunk to be discerning. I remember some great sopas - little flat tortillas with a topping of salsa verde. And good fresh red salsas too, although disappointingly mild.
The prices are Fitzroy-ish but you can't blame them when all the dodgy Mexican restaurants charge more. And the menu has a really cute note - "if you like it, tell all your friends because we really need to send some cash to our relatives in jail in Columbia." How can you resist that?
Labels: eating out
Thursday, October 28, 2004
When I'm not eating
When I'm not eating, or thinking about food, I do spend a lot of time listening to strange music I find around the place. Hunting new choons I came across the wonderful list of food songs at Pop Heaven. I was hoping it would be actual songs but it's joke titles. Still, you can't beat "Chutney's in Love" or "Jumping Flapjack" for punny greatness.
If you want actual songs, recently I've been hanging at:
Cocaine Blunts and Hip Hop Mixtapes - great rare hip hop joints and lots of cassette only tracks and The Number One Songs in Heaven - beautiful soul and gospel action
Wednesday, October 27, 2004
Pizza madness
Lessons from last night's pizza party. Making pizza for 30 when you only have 2 shelves in your oven is not the best idea - but it was my darling's birthday party so I wasn't too upset about spending the night in front of the oven for her.
Marion's new topping tip is gold - Taleggio and Cime di Rapa.
Taleggio is a melty slightly stinky cheese - like a very aged brie. It has a lovely pinkish rind and is going to be a new favourite indulgence of mine. I found it at Mediterranean Wholesalers (Sydney Rd, near corner of Victoria St) where you can also pick up a jar of Cime di Rapa - basically turnip greens marinated in oil with garlic and chilli. The combination of the greens, which are quite bitter and sharp, with the melty cheese is just wonderful.
Other toppings we had:
- pumpkin, rocket, fetta and pinenuts
- potato, caramelised onion and rosemary
- tomato, bocconcini and basil
- tomato sauce, mushroom, fresh mozarrella, garlic and olives
I'm still not super confident making pizza - it was hard to get the base cooked perfectly without burning the toppings. Also sometimes the potato and pumpkin pizzas were a bit drier than I've had them at my favourite pizza joints. But the crowds were happy and well fed and I'm definitely inspired to try again soon.
Any pizza advice would be much welcomed.
Where do they come from?
It's hard to resist reading the referrers report at my net stats people. I love the person who searched for "what are the goog positions for making love" as much as the many who were looking for pumpkin scones.
But thank you to food porn watch - a very impressive list of recently updated food blogs and to KIPlog's food blog - a never ending source of eating and cooking including debates on vegetarianism and a link to porno cookies. really.
If you came from either of these two - then welcome. And if you're looking for "goog positions", sorry.
Tuesday, October 26, 2004
Shopping Lists
Well, I've collected a few. I know the infamous zine queen Vanessa Berry used to collect them. But of course someone has taken it to a whole new level. At grocerylists.org there are 500 scanned shopping lists. I love it.
The problem with trying to be less slack at work means I'm more slack at updating this site. I wanted to post about the Rhubarb Cake I made on Friday, a recipe for the brilliant Mexican Garlic Soup shane's been making, and the yummy mini-filo cigars I took to dinner on Sunday. Oh and I really need to post on the Passionfruit Sponge I made yesterday - trying to be a good assimilated Australian was really very stressful. So hold on.. I'll be back to tell you about them. And tonight's pizza making party - I'm going to try Marion's suggestion of Italian marinated turnip tops (Creme de Rapa?) and Tallegio. Mmmmm.
Tuesday, October 19, 2004
Too full?
Well it's been an epic weekend for eating. Visiting with Sarah's parents in scenic Tasmania where we were spoilt to the point of pain. You don't see me saying no to cake very often but this was a different case. Sarah's Mum had clearly been preparing for days. Here's my highlights:
- Lemon and Coconut Tart - this flat little tart greeted us when we staggered in from the plane. It didn't look to flash but it was zesty and the coconut gave it great texture.
- Homemade Dolmades - I found these when I was guiltily riffling through the fridge. Sweet and lemony with lots of pine nuts.
- Lasagne - I forgot how good mushrooms are in lasagne - big chunky juicy bits.
- Cauliflower Italienne - it didn't seem that Italian, more classic skip cooking but I loved it. Cauliflower with onions, tomatoes and lots of olives (the Italian bit) smothered in bechamel and baked. Yes it sure was a cheese-fest.
- Ginger and Lime Creme Caramels - these were a standout winner - so smooth and creamy. Very gentle flavours infused into the milk. Served with home bottled cherries!
- Orange and Poppyseed Cake - there's good poppyseed cake and there's not. This was good - soft and zesty. Runny cream splashed on made it soft and puddingy.
- Artichokes - I picked these myself from the garden outside. Big purple spiky ones that came up so well just boiled and dipped into garlic butter. How perfect is a vegetable that gets better as you work your way through from the outer leaves to the tender ones to that little heart inside?
And also - me and Nell once tried to list all the types of dumplings we knew. We tried to cook a lot of them too. If you're a dumpling fiend too you might appreciate this list over at Seattle Bon Vivant. There's also a recipe for a goats cheese dumpling served with Pistachios and Honey that looks awesome. Although Nell and me did argue about whether you can bake a dumpling. Ahh classifying things, how I do love it.
Tuesday, October 12, 2004
disappointments and condensed milk
well there have been some disappointments this week. Of course in the land of electoral stuff everything went to shit.
And in the food universe - Cafe Armenia was closed when we tried to go there on Saturday. We reached the end of a 4 hour op-shop trek well and truly ready for some cherry dumplings but it was not to be. Lucky I scored that great tuxedo and hot-pink cummerbund to cheer me up. So it was off to Grandma Kimchi again and some very satisfying lunching was done there. I think their cucumber kimchi is mindblowingly good - crunch, hotness and cooling perfectly matched.
Wednesday night me and Nell trooped off to Ong's food court (under the Mercure Hotel, Lt Bourke St btw Swanson and Eliz) to see if it could be the place to move our regular weekly dinners. Goldan Fork , which is a branch of the brilliant Bismi provided dinner. I love this place - you can watch them making roti and dosai on the big grill in front of you. Watching the chef turn a ball of dough into a giant crispy thin pancake or a sweet flaky soft roti is great.
We had Chickpea Masala Dosai. These are one of my favourite finds of this year. $5 gets you a footlong crisp dosai pancake (about 200gsm thick) wrapped around a moist chickpea and potato curry. Sambal, coconut chutney and chilli sauce round it out. So damn fine. And finally, who knows why, I had room to try the Roti Bom. The roti here are always awesome - you can get them stuffed with curry, or garlic, or tamarind... But the sweet ones have been disappointing so far, even the milo one was dry and had hardly any milo. Roti Bom is a winner though - wrapped around butter and sugar and drenched in condensed milk. Yes, it could stop fragile hearts.
We decided against moving Wed night dinners to Ong's. Although there's a lot of good food there the atmosphere at night is really lacking and it seems that with everyone ordering their own food from the different outlets and jumping up to get it when it's ready we'll lose what's nice about all sitting down together and sharing a regular meal.
Last night I remembered how good spring is and how wonderful risotto is. While Sammy and Shane drank beer and entertained me I stirred. A plain risotto made with Massel's fake chicken stock and just a few asparagus, a bit of zucchini and broccoli thrown in towards the end. So velvety and perfect. The key I think is to have good stock (even if it's powdered) and throw in lots of butter and parmesan to melt in before serving. Won a few fans in the loungeroom with that.
Labels: eating out
Wednesday, October 06, 2004
suburban paradise
Oh boy am I excited. Marion gave me a tip-off that KimChi Grandma had been reviewed in the age. Had a read and I was tempted - good Korean, not too flashy - only catch was it's in Carnegie. Luckily I somehow convinced Sarah to go on a pilgrimage - we had a walk on the beach on the way and suburbia wasn't too bad at all - lots of promising looking op-shops.
KimChi Grandma It was just what I've been craving - packed out (on a Tuesday) with Koreans and skips, speedy service, masses of side dishes... not too wallet busting either ($30 for 2).
As usual the side dishes were the highlight - and there were 7 complimentary ones! Great cucumber kimchi, asparagus with chilli, lovely radish slices, eggplant, some wacky honeyed potatoes, beansprouts with seaweed and regular cabbage kimchi! To wash them down we had a tofu dish very much like Agedashi Tofu, potato noodles (!) and a stew based on kimchi with vegies and a bit of rice cake. Everything was simple but with very good flavour. Mixed up with the sharp and chilli tastes of the sides, rice and that awesome corn tea - such a bloody feast.
Oh how I wish that KimChi Grandma was around the corner from my house. They even have ice cream mochi - the little dumpling cakes filled with red bean ice cream that I used to get in Footscray. So if you happen to be in the south-east cruise down to 125 Koornang Rd, Carnegie for a feast. Apparently there's one in Box Hill too. Oh shit - a Whitepages search just revealed one in the city - 145 Bourke St... maybe I should have done my research better. Don't tell Sarah.
Well, there is a reason we had to trek to Carnegie - the other thing that's got me totally stoked is Cafe Armenia which we stumbled across - across the road from KimChi Grandma. Sarah and I had to admit we didn't even know where Armenia is - I said Middle East, she said Baltic. We were both kinda on the right track - between Turkey, Georgia and Azerbaijan. Anyway the place is only a year old but looks like a relic from the 50s - handpainted Armenian (I guess) landscapes and old plates with gold rims like my grandma had. And on the menu, besides the endless meaty stews and bbq platters - cherry dumplings, pancakes with potato, walnut and bean spread!!!! So saturday will be an op-shop crawl and Armenian lunch. I am truly overexcited... Will let you know what it's like.
Labels: eating out